Travel --- 12/26/2008 - 1/17/2009 --- Peru

Winter break in Peru.

Jefe y Tres Esposas Ir a Peru

12/26  Take the very expensive short line bus to NYC. Coincidentally, Brett has a shoulder injury. We compare slings.

12/27  Emily arrives early in the morning.  Along with Brett, we take a long walk through Central Park, stopping for a while at Belvedere castle, and finishing at a very crowded 5th Avenue.  Then we head to the International Center of Photography to see the exhibits.  The main exhibit is of Cornell Capa, who did quite impressive work though he was far overshadowed as a photographer by his brother, Robert (I can relate).  There are also exhibits of Eugene Smith's work and tintype photos.

12/28  Emily and I leave at 4:30am to catch our flight.  We meet a very amusing drunk in the subway.  He is distressed that the woman he just met sent him home instead of letting him spend the night.  More than anything, he wants us to agree with his view that she did the wrong thing.  We are noncommittal on the subject.  We fly to Atlanta where we meet Jen and Beth.  The four of us fly to Lima.

12/29  Arriving in Lima early in the morning we do our best to get cheap plane tickets to Cusco.  Ideally we would like to go to Cusco immediately, but those tickets are $400 round trip.  We find tickets for $175 at the end of our time in Peru.  That will do.

At this point we are all exhausted, but we have more traveling to do.  At 5am we take a taxi to one of the bus stations.  Max, our driver, is a pretty cool character.  My first chance at having a Spanish conversation.  We talk about Peru, religion, politics and traveling.  I'm happy with my Spanglish and my ability to communicate.  We reach the first bus station and find nothing going to Huaraz until 11pm.  It is low season and many bus companies run a limited schedule.  So Max drives us to Movil Tours where we get the last four seats on an 8am bus to Huaraz.  We sit in the nasty, rat infested (literally) bus terminal until 9am when our bus finally leaves.  The S/45 (S/3 = $1) seats are comfortable and we all sleep soundly for the entire 8 hour bus ride.

In Huaraz, we wander lost because our map shows the wrong location for the Movil Tours terminal.  Finally, we find hostel Tany where we get a room for S/50 and crash for the night.

12/30  We spend a few hours wandering around Huaraz to get our bearings.  We locate La Casa de Zarela, which is highly recommended in our guide book, and we decide to upgrade from Tany.  Our room is S/80 per night and we have access to a nice kitchen and 24x7 hot water.  The hostel also has free internet, which is convenient.  Internet access is as cheap as S/1 per hour a block down the street.  I think it was S/15 per hour in the Lima airport and S/3 per hour in Aguas Calientes -- basically varying between cheap and really cheap.  Other than two facebook status updates and an attempt at buying train tickets online, I never use the internet while in Peru.  But it is an easy way to stay in touch... much cheaper and easier than trying to use the phone.

We research activities for tomorrow.  Beth reads about a nearby archeological site and tells us that, "They built these really cool ruins underground."  I question the logic of building ruins.  We eat dinner at Patrick's Creperie, my favorite restaurant in Peru.  Local food is basically chicken and rice, which isn't exactly vegetarian friendly.  And we have to be careful to eat only at restaurants with a reputation for thoroughly cooking food and rinsing salads in purified water.  According to Krystoff -- a fellow guest at Zarela who was formerly a chef in Huaraz -- restaurants owned by foreigners are our best bet for food safety.  So we aren't getting much Peruvian food, but at least we eat plenty of quinoa!

12/31  We visit the ruins at Willkawain which date from 1100BCE to 700BCE. We get a nice tour from Alex.  Then we hike to Monterrey and walk the road back to Huaraz.  About 15km for the day, our first acclimatization hike.

1/1  Happy New Year! Folks in Huaraz really like to shoot fireworks.  This isn't just at midnight.  It goes on for at least an hour.

We spend the day preparing for our hike and making reservations to ride horses.  Backpacking meals are pretty easy to put together, especially because we brought clif bars and some dehydrated veggies from the states.  But even just using the local market it would have been no problem.  More difficult is finding a map.  There is no good Peruvian topo.  Only the very expensive (S/80) Austrian Alpine Club map is available.  I pay the money because a good map is worth having.  Also worth having is white gas to power my stove.  This turns into another opportunity to use my Spanish.  I go to every hardware store (ferreteria) in Huaraz looking for white gas (bencina).  Nobody has it, but everybody thinks the hardware store across the street will sell it.  Finally I find a liter only to discover that I have no money... argh!  Ok, after much effort, I purchase white gas.  Emily and I filter it through a coffee filter because I'm worried about the quality.  Even so, during our hike we have to replace the Dragonfly's fuel filter every two meals.  Ironically, it turns out that the map and white gas are for sale back at Zarela.

We go to the big market and see everything for sale, including guinea pigs (skinned and ready to cook).  Heading back to Zarela, we play cards and pigs.  We play cards almost every day in Peru, but this is the only night we play pigs.  Not sure why... I really like pigs.

1/2  Horseback riding!  In the evening we pack for our five day hike.  Everything non-essential we leave in Zarela's locked storage room.

1/3  Awake early to take the collectivo to Caraz and from there a taxi to Cashapampa.  This is the start of the Santa Cruz trail.  We pay S/10 each for what we mistakenly think are park passes.  It turns out that this is just a small extortion at the start of the trail and will be greatly exceeded by the large extortion at the end of the trail.

Because of all the traveling, we don't start hiking until 9am.  As a result, it is raining heavily (like it does every single afternoon) by the time we reach Llamacorral, our first campsite.  My shoulder holds up fairly well.  I'm able to carry my backpack and even carry my share of the group gear.  It is sore each evening, but nothing a bit of anti-inflammatory meds can't solve.

1/4  Awake at 5am so we can hike before the afternoon rains start.  We hike to Quishuar, at the turn off to the Alpamayo trail.  During the day, I put on my sunglasses and put my regular glasses in the sunglasses case.  This turns out to be a tragic mistake.  The case has a gap at the top which isn't large enough for the sunglasses to slip out, but apparently is large enough for my regular glasses to slip out.  I spend the rest of the trip wearing my prescription sunglasses.  This isn't a problem during the day, but at night I've got the choice of being blinded by sunglasses or blinded by my terrible vision.

1/5  We start the day with a quick hike to Alpamayo.  It is supposed to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.  We mostly see clouds.  Still a nice hike.

We pack camp and split into two groups.  Beth and Emily will go over Punta Union pass today.  Jen and I will camp just shy of the pass.  We make camp by 11:30am and I have the whole day to take pictures of Taulliraju, which is also one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.  For me this is the highlight of three weeks in Peru.

Camping at 15,100' it is fairly chilly, though I survive in my 40F bag (which is good down to about 28F if I wear a layer or two).  It is also tricky to cook dinner since water boils around 188F.  But I'm not complaining, it is one of the most spectacular campsites of my life.

1/6  Jen and I hike over Punta Union (where I reach my lifetime high point of 15,617') and down to Paria camp where we meet Beth and Emily.  Like every other square foot of the Santa Cruz trail, Paria is covered in donkey, cow and horse poop.  At the start of the hike conversations would go like this:
     "Don't step in the cow poop!"
     <detours around cow poop> "EEEEWWW!!!"

By the end of the hike, conversations would go like this:
     "Ummm... your spoon is in cow poop again."
    <licks spoon> "Actually, I think that is donkey poop."

And on top of all that, the poo can be misleading.

1/7  Beth spends the morning collecting the remnants of her food bag.  A cow broke into her vestibule and took everything.  Hikers should bring cow canisters.

We hike out to Vaqueria and pay the very expensive park fee.  S/65 per person!  That's real money.  And they charge when you exit the park, which means you had better bring plenty of cash for the entire hike.  After much arguing, Beth turns on the tears and gets us out of buying one ticket.  So we still paid the equivalent of $75 in total park fees for five days of hiking.  In the park's defense, the fees are clearly listed in our guidebook and I like to think that the money is used to support the park (though I suspect that isn't the case).

We wait for a few hours to catch the collectivo to Yungay.  This is an amazing ride in an overloaded minivan on twisty dirt roads which climb and drop over thousands of feet of elevation and hundreds of switchbacks.  At one switchback we see a collection of crosses, presumably where a collectivo didn't negotiate the turn.  Luckily we survive the trip and reach the main entrance to the park.  Here officials check our park tickets.  Jen and I manage to pass one ticket between us, so the four of us get by with only three tickets.  This slight of hand greatly amuses our fellow passengers.  We have made friends during the 2.5 hour ride down the mountains and they are on our side, especially when they hear how much the tickets cost.  Of course, only the four of us are checked for tickets.  The other 18 people on the collectivo appear to be Peruvian and officials let them pass without a second glance.

From Yungay we grab a collectivo back to Huaraz.  We return to Zarela and take much needed showers.  Then off to Patrick's Creperie to gorge on ridiculous amounts of food topped by a chocolate fondue dessert.  Since it is raining, we decide to pay S/3 for a taxi back to Zarela.  After one block our taxi is pulled over by the police and the driver detained for questioning.  We never really know what is going on, but we get out of the taxi and walk back to our hostel -- the rain no longer seems like such a big deal.

1/8  Rest day in Huaraz.  Most interesting story of the trip:  Beth, Emily and I go to the market in the afternoon.  Jen stays behind to read.  When we get back, she tells us that someone came into our room's entryway and closed the door behind him.  This person waited a moment, then walked into the room.  Here he saw Jen, said something about being in the wrong room and made a quick exit.  To me it is clearly obvious that he is a thief.  We have started to get careless with our belongings and this is a good reminder to take sensible precautions.  And it turns out he is a thief.  He has stolen copies of all the room keys from the main office and gone room to room taking valuables.  The police come to the hostel and Jen is shown pictures to identify the person she saw.  I feel bad for David, the manager at Zarela.  He is a really nice guy and the hostel is great.  David has the locks changed the next morning.  Even with the theft, I really like Zarela and wouldn't hesitate to return.

1/9  Our second long travel day of the trip.  We take a bus back to Lima.  S/55 for seats that recline most of the way to horizontal.  And they feed us a bit, which saves time because the bus doesn't have to stop for people to eat.  Back in Lima, we take a taxi to the airport arriving around midnight.

1/10  We hang out in the airport until our 6am flight to Cusco.  Once in Cusco, we head to the train office to buy tickets for the Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes train.  We had tried to buy them online, but the credit card verification process failed.  Interestingly, it fails again when we are in the ticket office and we have to pay with cash ($75 per person, round trip).  We are rarely able to use credit cards at any time in Peru.  Luckily ATMs are everywhere.

Next we are off to the Instituto Nacional de Cultura to buy Machu Picchu tickets.  The girls are able to get student tickets (S/62) even though their Cornell ids do not have expiration dates (it takes some arguing).  Nobody is believing  that I'm a student, I pay full price (S/124).  Finally, we get a taxi to Ollantaytambo.  I spend the 1.5 hour drive talking to Eric, our driver.  He even teaches me some Quechua.  Like about 8% of the population, Eric's mother speaks only Quechua.  He is fluent in Quechua and Spanish, and speaks some English.  Considering my very limited Spanish, I'm happy with how well I am able to converse with people.  I'm always able to communicate the essentials, and occasionally able to have a social conversation.

In Ollantaytambo we quickly find a quirky hostel (S/75 per night) and crash.

1/11  The earliest train tickets we could get are for the 12th, so we have a day to kill in Ollantaytambo.  The local ruins are very expensive (S/70 per person) so we opt out.  Our hostel has a leaky roof, stinkier than usual bathrooms and no hot water (which turns out to be due to a power failure in the whole town).  So we move to a different hostel (S/80 per night), which at least doesn't have a leaky roof.  We discover Hearts Cafe on the main square.  The food is quite good and all the profits support indigenous charities.  Every hostel and restaurant in Ollantaytambo seems to support some cause.  Given that the town is 100% devoted to tourism, getting tourists to support decent charities is a good thing.

1/12  Early morning start for the 5:30am train to Aguas Calientes.  From there we take busses ($14 per person, round trip) up the mountain to Machu Picchu.  It is a pretty impressive place.  I definitely would have been disappointed if I had come to Peru and not seen Machu Picchu.  However, it is very expensive -- both in terms of time and money -- to reach the site.  Hard to justify $300 and four days of travel for any ruins, even the most spectacular of ruins.

Like every other day in Peru, we never really get good light at sunrise or sunset.  Clouds are too thick. Still, I take what pictures I can.  I spend a lot of time following guided groups with English speaking guides.  I learn many facts (some contradictory) about Machu Picchu.  The city housed about 1000 people.  It was most likely a retreat for the Inca rulers.  A city like Cusco was built by 50,000 workers (and the old Inca walls are still visible today) but Machu Picchu couldn't support that many inhabitants.  So the 1000 workers were given coco leaves to help them work harder and deal with the altitude.  The city was never finished.  Most likely, it was abandoned when the Spaniards arrived to keep them from discovering and destroying the temples.  Spaniards were kind enough to spread Christianity -- which is self evidently the only correct collection of mythology and superstition -- and were helpfully destroying Inca temples and culture.  Machu Picchu today is an unfinished city, about 60% original and 40% restored by archeologists.

Around noon the daily rain starts.  We have seen the whole city, so we retreat to a very overpriced restaurant in Aguas Calientes.  Hanging out in the town for the rest of the day, we finally board our train back to Ollantaytambo.  On this train ride the crew performs an interesting dance and fashion show.

1/13  Taxi back to Cusco.  We try to get into Loki, the huge backpacker hostel, but it is full.  We end up just down the street at hostel Andrea paying only S/60 for one night.  And there is even a tiny kitchen.  We walk around Cusco a bit, then buy food for dinner and our next long travel day.

1/14  Morning flight to Lima.  We plan to tour the city... check out the Skull Cathedral and Miraflores beach.  But Emily is really sick and not able to do anything.  So we spend our final day in the airport we have come to know far too well.  Funny story: a woman takes pictures of her kids with Emily and me.  Maybe she thought I was Bono.  Finally, we get our boarding passes and happily learn that the $30.25 airport departure fee is included in our ticket.

1/15  We fly back to the states and go our separate ways.  I take the subway to Brett and Sherri's place where I apparently fall asleep in the middle of a conversation.

1/16  The three of us go back to the ICP which has a new exhibit for the new year.  Unique fashion photos are the highlight, and I'm surprised to discover that I really like some fashion photography (especially Steven Klein's work).  Also on display is the work of Edward Steichen and Martin Munkacsi.

1/17  Short line bus back to Ithaca.  A very cold walk from Collegetown to my house (carrying a too heavy backpack).  I get home and immediately go to the car where I retrieve my emergency backup glasses.  Clear vision...  yes!

Emily taking a picture for a bunch of other tourists in Central Park. (Category:  Travel)

Emily taking a picture for a bunch of other tourists in Central Park.    NYC -- 12/27/2008

We pushed together a bunch of benches to make an awesome king size bed in the Atlanta airport. (Category:  Travel)

We pushed together a bunch of benches to make an awesome king size bed in the Atlanta airport.    Atlanta -- 12/28/2008

We land in Lima to discover strange sights, sounds and smells. (Category:  Travel)

We land in Lima to discover strange sights, sounds and smells. Everything here is so very different from what we are accustomed to in the United States. Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore!    Lima, Peru -- 12/29/2008

Our favorite semi-quiet corner in the Lima airport. (Category:  Travel)

Our favorite semi-quiet corner in the Lima airport.    Lima, Peru -- 12/29/2008

We are amazed by the number and diversity of the dogs we see roaming the streets of Huaraz. (Category:  Travel)

We are amazed by the number and diversity of the dogs we see roaming the streets of Huaraz.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/30/2008

Perroitos! (Category:  Travel)

Perroitos!    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/30/2008

Soledad Cathedral (Category:  Travel)

Soledad Cathedral    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/30/2008

Jen inside Soledad Cathedral. (Category:  Travel)

Jen inside Soledad Cathedral.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/30/2008

Jen inside Soledad Cathedral. (Category:  Travel)

Jen inside Soledad Cathedral.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/30/2008

We had to leave Soledad because a wedding was about to start. (Category:  Travel)

We had to leave Soledad because a wedding was about to start.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/30/2008

Pig cart! (Category:  Travel)

Pig cart!    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/30/2008

Lost in Huaraz. (Category:  Travel)

Lost in Huaraz.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/30/2008

La Casa de Zarela, our favorite hostel in Peru. (Category:  Travel)

La Casa de Zarela, our favorite hostel in Peru.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/30/2008

The main Willkawain ruin. (Category:  Travel)

The main Willkawain ruin.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Smaller Willkawain ruin.  Sub-ruin?  Mini-ruin? (Category:  Travel)

Smaller Willkawain ruin. Sub-ruin? Mini-ruin?    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Jen (Category:  Travel)

Jen    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Jen Sheep. (Category:  Travel)

Jen Sheep.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Starting the hike to Monterrey. (Category:  Travel)

Starting the hike to Monterrey.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Starting the hike to Monterrey. (Category:  Travel)

Starting the hike to Monterrey.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Emily, me, Jen and Beth hiking to Monterrey. (Category:  Travel)

Emily, me, Jen and Beth hiking to Monterrey.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Charlie's Angels in Peru. (Category:  Travel)

Charlie's Angels in Peru.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Carlos Angeles en Peru. (Category:  Travel)

Carlos Angeles en Peru.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

I don't know why I kept all three of these photos, but they really crack me up. (Category:  Travel)

I don't know why I kept all three of these photos, but they really crack me up.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Another one of my COE advertisements. (Category:  Travel)

Another one of my COE advertisements.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Livestock usually has right of way, but pedestrians NEVER have right of way. (Category:  Travel)

Livestock usually has right of way, but pedestrians NEVER have right of way.    Huaraz, Peru -- 12/31/2008

Beth and Cinnamon. (Category:  Travel)

Beth and Cinnamon.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Beth and Cinnamon. (Category:  Travel)

Beth and Cinnamon.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Bringing our horses. (Category:  Travel)

Bringing our horses.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Sunscreen! (Category:  Travel)

Sunscreen!    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Checking all the horses. (Category:  Travel)

Checking all the horses.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Checking all the horses. (Category:  Travel)

Checking all the horses.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Horseback riding. (Category:  Travel)

Horseback riding.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Argh!!!  I should have jumped off my horse and taken a bunch of pictures of this girl and her puppy... (Category:  Travel)

Argh!!! I should have jumped off my horse and taken a bunch of pictures of this girl and her puppy... Instead of the one blurry picture I managed to take.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Prickly pear and cholla cactus are everywhere.  Which is somewhat ironic since it rains every day.  Guess the dry season must be very dry to compensate. (Category:  Travel)

Prickly pear and cholla cactus are everywhere. Which is somewhat ironic since it rains every day. Guess the dry season must be very dry to compensate.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Perro followed us the entire day. (Category:  Travel)

Perro followed us the entire day. He took on the difficult task of going ahead to look for other dogs, then fought with them until we were well past. It wasn't actually helpful at all.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Beth (Category:  Travel)

Beth    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Jen (Category:  Travel)

Jen    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Beth and Jen (Category:  Travel)

Beth and Jen    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Our awesome guide. (Category:  Travel)

Our awesome guide.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Three Quechua girls on a donkey. (Category:  Travel)

Three Quechua girls on a donkey.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Our awesome guide again. (Category:  Travel)

Our awesome guide again.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Beth riding Cinnamon. (Category:  Travel)

Beth riding Cinnamon.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Jen riding Gringo. (Category:  Travel)

Jen riding Gringo.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Emily riding Gassy. (Category:  Travel)

Emily riding Gassy.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Riding El Capitan. (Category:  Travel)

Riding El Capitan.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

I was trying to figure out why I look so fat in this picture.  Then I remembered the travel wallet. (Category:  Travel)

I was trying to figure out why I look so fat in this picture. Then I remembered the travel wallet. Yeah, I had a big belly the entire time I was in Peru, but my passport, credit cards, cash and train tickets were all safe.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Perro y cuatro amigos y caballo. (Category:  Travel)

Perro y cuatro amigos y caballo.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/2/2009

Beth, me, Jen and Emily at the start of the Santa Cruz trail. (Category:  Travel)

Beth, me, Jen and Emily at the start of the Santa Cruz trail.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/3/2009

Drinking tubes are great.  If you have one, people will ask to drink your water.  This is a good way to get a lighter pack. (Category:  Travel)

Drinking tubes are great. If you have one, people will ask to drink your water. This is a good way to get a lighter pack.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/3/2009

Trail cow. (Category:  Travel)

Trail cow.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/3/2009

Beth (Category:  Travel)

Beth    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/3/2009

Reaching the first camp site. (Category:  Travel)

Reaching the first camp site.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/3/2009

Hiking (Category:  Travel)

Hiking    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

Pig (Category:  Travel)

Pig    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

I thought this was a cool image of hikers on the trail. (Category:  Travel)

I thought this was a cool image of hikers on the trail.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

To me, this is backpacking...  The feeling of walking, with the focus sharply on the immediate surroundings. (Category:  Travel)

To me, this is backpacking... The feeling of walking, with the focus sharply on the immediate surroundings.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

But the girls thought they should be in focus. (Category:  Travel)

But the girls thought they should be in focus.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

COE gave us early edition Outdoor Odyssey shirts we could model in Peru. (Category:  Travel)

COE gave us early edition Outdoor Odyssey shirts we could model in Peru.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

On the trail. (Category:  Travel)

On the trail.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

Ferdinand! (Category:  Travel)

Ferdinand!    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

Jen (Category:  Travel)

Jen    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

Beth (Category:  Travel)

Beth    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

Sketchy log crossing. (Category:  Travel)

Sketchy log crossing.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

Beth making friends with the locals. (Category:  Travel)

Beth making friends with the locals.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

Doing a very good job of it. (Category:  Travel)

Doing a very good job of it.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

Me trying the same thing. (Category:  Travel)

Me trying the same thing. This really didn't feel as dangerous as the picture makes it appear.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

A little better... (Category:  Travel)

A little better...    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

Friendship achieved! (Category:  Travel)

Friendship achieved!    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/4/2009

Alpamayo peaking out through the clouds. (Category:  Travel)

Alpamayo peaking out through the clouds.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Side hike to Alpamayo base camp. (Category:  Travel)

Side hike to Alpamayo base camp.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

These trees have paper thin bark, reminiscent of river birch, but bright orange in color. (Category:  Travel)

These trees have paper thin bark, reminiscent of river birch, but bright orange in color.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Millisraju (Category:  Travel)

Millisraju    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Millisraju (Category:  Travel)

Millisraju    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Pnony! (Category:  Travel)

Pnony!    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Our first view of Taulliraju. (Category:  Travel)

Our first view of Taulliraju.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Posing with Taulliraju. (Category:  Travel)

Posing with Taulliraju.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Posing with Taulliraju. (Category:  Travel)

Posing with Taulliraju.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Posing with Taulliraju. (Category:  Travel)

Posing with Taulliraju.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Taulliraju (Category:  Travel)

Taulliraju    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Jen (Category:  Travel)

Jen    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Jen (Category:  Travel)

Jen    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Jen (Category:  Travel)

Jen    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Taulliraju (Category:  Travel)

Taulliraju    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Emily and Beth starting the first set of switchbacks to Punta Union. (Category:  Travel)

Emily and Beth starting the first set of switchbacks to Punta Union.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Doing my physical therapy at 15,100' in the Cordillera Blanca. (Category:  Travel)

Doing my physical therapy at 15,100' in the Cordillera Blanca.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Marmot advertisement. (Category:  Travel)

Marmot advertisement.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

The Marmot Starfish at 15,100' in the Cordillera Blanca. (Category:  Travel)

The Marmot Starfish at 15,100' in the Cordillera Blanca.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Worthy of the Marmot catalog?  I think so. (Category:  Travel)

Worthy of the Marmot catalog? I think so.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Jen and the Starfish. (Category:  Travel)

Jen and the Starfish.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Jen about to leave my rain pants out for the night. (Category:  Travel)

Jen about to leave my rain pants out for the night.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/5/2009

Taulliraju (Category:  Travel)

Taulliraju    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Taulliraju (Category:  Travel)

Taulliraju    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Jen looking very hardcore. (Category:  Travel)

Jen looking very hardcore.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Jen still looking very hardcore. (Category:  Travel)

Jen still looking very hardcore.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

The amazing emerald green Lake Taullicocha. (Category:  Travel)

The amazing emerald green Lake Taullicocha.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Taulliraju and Lake Taullicocha seen from near Punta Union pass. (Category:  Travel)

Taulliraju and Lake Taullicocha seen from near Punta Union pass.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Looking West down the valley where we have been traveling for three days. (Category:  Travel)

Looking West down the valley where we have been traveling for three days.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Above Punta Union pass at 15,617 feet.  My personal high point. (Category:  Travel)

Above Punta Union pass at 15,617 feet. My personal high point.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Above Punta Union pass at 15,617 feet.  My personal high point.  Now with freaky sunglasses. (Category:  Travel)

Above Punta Union pass at 15,617 feet. My personal high point. Now with freaky sunglasses.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Jen hiking down the East side of the ridge from Punta Union. (Category:  Travel)

Jen hiking down the East side of the ridge from Punta Union.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

This stuff was growing everywhere.  Made for comfy walking when it was on the trail. (Category:  Travel)

This stuff was growing everywhere. Made for comfy walking when it was on the trail.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

More macro photography. (Category:  Travel)

More macro photography.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Lichen? (Category:  Travel)

Lichen?    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Caterpillar (Category:  Travel)

Caterpillar    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Yup, Beth just found a random donkey and climbed aboard. (Category:  Travel)

Yup, Beth just found a random donkey and climbed aboard. BTW, this isn't the donkey that bit her.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

Emily just trying to blend in. (Category:  Travel)

Emily just trying to blend in.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

We saw lots of guided groups with Donkeys carrying all their gear.  We thought it would have been a lame way to hike the trail.  But we were still somewhat jealous. (Category:  Travel)

We saw lots of guided groups with Donkeys carrying all their gear. We thought it would have been a lame way to hike the trail. But we were still somewhat jealous.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/6/2009

In the Huaripampa River valley, heading South to Vaqueria. (Category:  Travel)

In the Huaripampa River valley, heading South to Vaqueria.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/7/2009

Hiking out. (Category:  Travel)

Hiking out.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/7/2009

Donkey, Emily and Jen. (Category:  Travel)

Donkey, Emily and Jen.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/7/2009

Reaching the outskirts of Vaqueria. (Category:  Travel)

Reaching the outskirts of Vaqueria.    Santa Cruz Trail, Peru -- 1/7/2009

View out the collectivo window at the sketchiest road ever. (Category:  Travel)

View out the collectivo window at the sketchiest road ever. The road from Vaqueria to Yungay plummets over 1000m in a short distance. You can just barely see a bunch of switchbacks in the lower left part of the picture. Luckily, our driver wore a sweater which made him look like a Peruvian Mr. Rogers, so we felt safe.    Huascaran National Park, Peru -- 1/7/2009

Back at La Casa de Zarela. (Category:  Travel)

Back at La Casa de Zarela.    Huaraz, Peru -- 1/7/2009

These idols were on every roof in Ollantaytambo. (Category:  Travel)

These idols were on every roof in Ollantaytambo.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/10/2009

I have climbed highest mountains (Category:  Travel)

I have climbed highest mountains
I have run through the fields
Only to be with you
Only to be with you
I have run
I have crawled
I have scaled these city walls
These city walls
Only to be with you

But I still haven't found what I'm looking for
But I still haven't found what I'm looking for    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/10/2009

Early morning, April 4 (Category:  Travel)

Early morning, April 4
Shot rings out in the Memphis sky
Free at last, they took your life
They could not take your pride

In the name of love
What more in the name of love    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/10/2009

The Ollantaytambo ruins. (Category:  Travel)

The Ollantaytambo ruins.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/11/2009

The Ollantaytambo ruins. (Category:  Travel)

The Ollantaytambo ruins.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/11/2009

The accessible part of the Ollantaytambo ruins are mobbed with tourists. (Category:  Travel)

The accessible part of the Ollantaytambo ruins are mobbed with tourists.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/11/2009

The cobblestone streets of Ollantaytambo. (Category:  Travel)

The cobblestone streets of Ollantaytambo.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/11/2009

A nice guest house along the river. (Category:  Travel)

A nice guest house along the river.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/11/2009

Beth (Category:  Travel)

Beth    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/11/2009

One of the ubiquitous moto-taxis. (Category:  Travel)

One of the ubiquitous moto-taxis.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/11/2009

Passenger truck. (Category:  Travel)

Passenger truck.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/11/2009

Quechua woman. (Category:  Travel)

Quechua woman.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/11/2009

Statue of an Inca Emperor in the main square. (Category:  Travel)

Statue of an Inca Emperor in the main square.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/11/2009

Machu Picchu emerging from the mist. (Category:  Travel)

Machu Picchu emerging from the mist.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Machu Picchu emerging from the mist. (Category:  Travel)

Machu Picchu emerging from the mist.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Machu Picchu emerging from the mist. (Category:  Travel)

Machu Picchu emerging from the mist.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Machu Picchu emerging from the mist.  What can I say?  There was a lot of mist.  You take what photos you can. (Category:  Travel)

Machu Picchu emerging from the mist. What can I say? There was a lot of mist. You take what photos you can.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

One of the many trapezoidal windows. (Category:  Travel)

One of the many trapezoidal windows.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

The thatched roofs did and amazing job of keeping the buildings dry. (Category:  Travel)

The thatched roofs did and amazing job of keeping the buildings dry.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Begonia veitchii covered in morning dew. (Category:  Travel)

Begonia veitchii covered in morning dew.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Begonia veitchii with the walls of Machu Picchu in the background. (Category:  Travel)

Begonia veitchii with the walls of Machu Picchu in the background.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Collaea speciosa (purple orchid). (Category:  Travel)

Collaea speciosa (purple orchid).    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Inca bridge in the distance. (Category:  Travel)

Inca bridge in the distance.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Inca bridge. (Category:  Travel)

Inca bridge.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

The Inca bridge was restored in 2008.  The cliff was bolted to facilitate the restoration.  The hangers are rated 22kN, but the bolts themselves are only 1/4

The Inca bridge was restored in 2008. The cliff was bolted to facilitate the restoration. The hangers are rated 22kN, but the bolts themselves are only 1/4".    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Agricultural terraces. (Category:  Travel)

Agricultural terraces.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Trapezoidal windows. (Category:  Travel)

Trapezoidal windows.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Flower in the Begonia genus? (Category:  Travel)

Flower in the Begonia genus?    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Llama (Category:  Travel)

Llama    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Llama (Category:  Travel)

Llama    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Llama (Category:  Travel)

Llama    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

The llamas roamed freely and were completely unperturbed by humans. (Category:  Travel)

The llamas roamed freely and were completely unperturbed by humans.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Chinchilla (Category:  Travel)

Chinchilla    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Chinchilla (Category:  Travel)

Chinchilla    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Begonia veitchii with the terraces of Machu Picchu in the background. (Category:  Travel)

Begonia veitchii with the terraces of Machu Picchu in the background.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Machu Picchu (Category:  Travel)

Machu Picchu    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

I had to wait about ten minutes to get the previous picture with no tourists in it.  This is a more typical snapshot of Machu Picchu. (Category:  Travel)

I had to wait about ten minutes to get the previous picture with no tourists in it. This is a more typical snapshot of Machu Picchu.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Something like 2,000 visitors in a typical day.  I had a really hard time keeping tourists out of the frame in most of my photos. (Category:  Travel)

Something like 2,000 visitors in a typical day. I had a really hard time keeping tourists out of the frame in most of my photos.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

A lizard watches over the city. (Category:  Travel)

A lizard watches over the city.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

A Mountain Caracara watches over Machu Picchu. (Category:  Travel)

A Mountain Caracara watches over Machu Picchu.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

I wish it had been a Condor, since those had religious significance to the Inca.  Still, the Mountain Caracara is a pretty cool raptor. (Category:  Travel)

I wish it had been a Condor, since those had religious significance to the Inca. Still, the Mountain Caracara is a pretty cool raptor.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

A Mountain Caracara watches over the city. (Category:  Travel)

A Mountain Caracara watches over the city.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Leaving Machu Picchu. (Category:  Travel)

Leaving Machu Picchu.    Machu Picchu, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Our favorite mistranslation of the entire trip. (Category:  Travel)

Trout to the Male Thing

Our favorite mistranslation of the entire trip.    Aguas Calientes, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Rainbow (Category:  Travel)

Rainbow    Aguas Calientes, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Fuente Inca, Gran Pachacutec, Inca Siglo XV (Category:  Travel)

Fuente Inca, Gran Pachacutec, Inca Siglo XV    Aguas Calientes, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Taking a picture of the dancer from the train. (Category:  Travel)

Taking a picture of the dancer from the train.    Aguas Calientes, Peru -- 1/12/2009

Train crew/performers. (Category:  Travel)

Train crew/performers.    Aguas Calientes, Peru -- 1/12/2009

These electric shower heads were everywhere.  This one is disconnected, though I don't know if the wires are live or not. (Category:  Travel)

These electric shower heads were everywhere. This one is disconnected, though I don't know if the wires are live or not. Sketchiest showers ever. Don't touch them, Jen.    Ollantaytambo, Peru -- 1/13/2009

Alpaca hanging out in the streets of Cusco. (Category:  Travel)

Alpaca hanging out in the streets of Cusco.    Cusco, Peru -- 1/13/2009

Plaza de Armas, Cusco. (Category:  Travel)

Plaza de Armas, Cusco.    Cusco, Peru -- 1/13/2009

Cathedral on the Plaza. (Category:  Travel)

Cathedral on the Plaza.    Cusco, Peru -- 1/13/2009

Inca flag. (Category:  Travel)

Inca flag.    Cusco, Peru -- 1/13/2009

Inca flag. (Category:  Travel)

Inca flag.    Cusco, Peru -- 1/13/2009

Viva El Peru. (Category:  Travel)

Viva El Peru.    Cusco, Peru -- 1/13/2009

Inca flag. (Category:  Travel)

Inca flag.    Cusco, Peru -- 1/13/2009

Plaza de Armas at night. (Category:  Travel)

Plaza de Armas at night.    Cusco, Peru -- 1/13/2009

One final siesta in the airport before heading back to the United States. (Category:  Travel)

One final siesta in the airport before heading back to the United States.    Lima, Peru -- 1/14/2009

29 days without shaving.  By far the longest I've ever gone. (Category:  Travel)

29 days without shaving. By far the longest I've ever gone. I didn't hate the look, but I wasn't going to keep it either.    Ithaca -- 1/23/2009

Guy suggested this style. (Category:  Travel)

Guy suggested this style.    Ithaca -- 1/23/2009