Rock Climbing --- 9/5/2010 - 9/7/2010 --- Gunks

Drove down Saturday night after spending the day Saturday hanging out with Katie and Adam (and Angua) who were visiting Ithaca. Met up with Guy and we spent the evening hanging out with Carolyn, Harrison, Alex, Katie, Taylor, Eric and Danny. Slept in the Trapps parking lot. There were at least 50 people sleeping in their cars in the lot -- including Guy; Keith and Sarah; and Josh, Kristyn and Eli.

Sunday morning we headed to Three Doves which Guy had never climbed. The piton at the crux of the first pitch wiggled side to side. Another party would pull it out a few days later. That's bothersome. A blue alien or #1 C3 fits in the horizontal next to the piton, but I didn't have those small cams with me. Good gear a few feet below though. The second pitch looks sketchy as ever. People say they can back it up with micronuts, but I don't see the placements (and never carry micronuts at the Gunks). Anyhow, we swung leads and all went well. Next off to Wonderland, a new climb for me. I led the direct start to the first pitch which is pretty spicy (one black alien in the first 40' of climbing). Then Guy linked pitches 2 and 3 to take us to the top of the cliff. Walked down to Simple Suff (another new climb) where we found Keith and Josh just finishing the climb. Guy led it clean (i.e. hammerless) and I struggled to get out most of the gear. We both enjoyed the climb on toprope. Finished the day with my lead of BB Route since I had never climbed it.

Guy went off to the Mountain Brauhaus with 504 and friends for dinner. Keith, Sarah and I watched the insect episode of BBC's Life series. Awesome!

Early Labor Day morning, Shay, Dan and Allison climbed High E to watch the sun rise. Impressive, but I was happy to watch the sun rise from my car (though I would like to spend the night on the High E ledge some day). Guy and I went straight to the Ent's Line area where we were joined by Magoogs. Guy led Ant's Line and I cleaned it. Then we had a TR on Ent's Line. I took two burns on the climb. Frustratingly, I fell once on each attempt. Still never toproped that climb cleanly. Though clearly I'll get it. Soon. I love that climb.

Guy went off to help Tom, Julian and Greg who were bailing on some chossfest. Magoogs and I hung out at Ent's Line. When Guy returned, he led Groovy. I cleaned it, then lowered to reclimb the 5.10a variation going straight through the roof on the right side. Fun set of moves. After that, we both toproped Space Invaders and were decidedly finished climbing for the day. We also got to watch Eric and Alex swing leads on Bonnie's Roof. We ate dinner with Keith and Sarah in the parking lot and ran into Supa Steve who had been up for the day with his crew.

The scary piton on the second pitch of Three Doves.  The piton at (Category:  Rock Climbing)

The scary piton on the second pitch of Three Doves. The piton at the crux of the first pitch would be pulled out just a few days later.    Gunks -- 9/6/2010

Keith leading some hard 11 left of Simple Suff. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Keith leading some hard 11 left of Simple Suff.    Gunks -- 9/6/2010

Aspiring Climber Eli. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Aspiring Climber Eli.    Gunks -- 9/6/2010

Aspiring (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Aspiring Hip Hop Artist Allison.    Gunks -- 9/7/2010

Alex leading the direct finish to Bonnie's Roof. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Alex leading the direct finish to Bonnie's Roof.    Gunks -- 9/7/2010

Dots.  By Mason and Magenheimer Confectionery Manufacturing Company of Brooklyn, NY. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Dots. By Mason and Magenheimer Confectionery Manufacturing Company of Brooklyn, NY.    Gunks -- 9/7/2010