Feb 2019 Draft: Ice Climbs and Hikes For COE ADK Ice Class
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WEATHER
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We have run this class in subzero temperatures and ended up with frostbitten
students. Bad idea. We ran this class in the middle of a thaw that flooded
Chapel Pond and closed a bunch of roads. We ran this class in a warming spell
that turned all the ice climbs into snow cones.
#1 Rule For Weather: Make sure it is safe to drive! Our shitty rear wheel drive
vans with shitty tires can barely get around Ithaca. In the summer. So make
sure the weather forecast is decent. You will be doing a ton of driving. Also,
be sure you have the good chains in the van (not the shitty ones) and you know
how to put them on.
#2 Rule For Weather: Your students do not own clothing suitable for being out
in temperatures below 5F. In fact, you probably don't own clothing suitable
for being out in temperatures below 5F. That's something you should fix.
Anyhow, if you are ice climbing and the temperature is below 5F, your students
will get frostbite. And they don't know the difference between impending
frostbite and impending screaming barfies. That 5F number assumes you are
sheltered from the wind. Which you should be, there are plenty of sheltered
places to climb. You can hike when it is colder than 5F as long as you are
careful with the group. Watch the windchill. Exposed skin is going to get
frostbitten fast if there is any wind. If the temperature is below -5F, then
you shouldn't be outside for any length of time. Find a spot near the trailhead
to look for animal tracks. Go to The Mountaineer and ogle gear. Go to Cake
Placid and eat cupcakes.
Hey, check out this windchill chart!
In addition to whatever weather app you use, get the mountain top weather forecasts
(especially wind speed predictions) from https://www.weather.gov/btv/mountain
And this ice climbing intro from Petzl!
Finally, if you aren't checking the Rock and River Ice Report, then you probably should just
stay in Ithaca and watch youtube videos of ice climbers.
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ICE CLIMBS
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Chapel Pond Canyon
Park at the Chapel Pond turnout.
The pond must be frozen. Use an ice screw and check for at least 2" of ice.
Recheck anywhere the ice or terrain changes.
The trail is well trod. We have always booted in to these climbs. Never
needed snowshoes.
All climbs are on the south wall of the canyon and get no sun. Lions on
the Beach can be very windy. All the climbs deeper in the canyon are
usually sheltered.
Chapel Pond is a stunning location!
You can access Chapel Pond Canyon via the Beer Walls approach. Useful if the
pond ice is too thin. Scout that approach before you teach the class so you
can find it.
Lions on the Beach (WI3)
First ice wall at the entrance to the canyon.
There is a walk up on the left which can be very sketchy in certain
conditions, or lead the line. Less sketchy walk up further left, starting
near the edge of Chapel Pond.
Room for at least three ropes. Often four.
Very popular area. Get there early. Don't have unoccupied ropes when
people walk by.
Hot Shot/Ice Slot (WI4)
The second major ice wall down the canyon.
There is a scramble up 50' right using a fixed cable.
Room for three ropes.
Positive Reinforcement (WI4-)
Third major ice wall down the canyon.
Room for three ropes.
Must lead to set TR.
Quinn the Eskimo (WI2)
Last climb in the canyon.
Easy, but tall. 60m rope just reaches the ground, extend the anchor a bit.
Probably only room for two ropes.
Must lead to set TR.
Dead Rabbit (WI3)
Start just where Chapel Pond narrows down. Head up the west side.
Skirt a cliff left, then schwack up steep hill for 20 minutes.
Hike would be difficult for students to do safely.
Maybe in high snow years on a nicely packed trail.
Ice is often fat here. Just visible from the road to check.
Of the three flows, only the right-most one is easily toproped.
No walkup, must be led?
Gets more wind than the stuff lower in the canyon
Pitchoff
Be very careful when walking on the road!!!!
Short approaches
Park at Cascade Pass.
Quarry (WI4-WI5)
Sunny and sheltered from the wind even when Cascade Pass is howling.
Hard climbs.
Walk up right. Bring long static ropes for anchors.
Usually space for five or six ropes.
Practice Slabs (aka Pitchoff Right) (WI3-)
Room for many ropes.
Walk up right. Static ropes for anchors.
Put on crampons at the road. Approach path is icy and steep.
Sunny. Somewhat sheltered from the wind.
Kit Kat (aka Pitchoff Left) (WI3)
Room for several ropes.
Lead or scramble up to anchors.
Put on crampons at the road. Approach path is icy and steep.
As of 2/2017 there is a fixed handline on the approach.
Sunny. Somewhat sheltered from the wind.
Clifford (aka Bowser) (WI3-)
Room for several ropes.
Lead or scramble up to anchors.
Put on crampons at the road. Approach path is icy and steep.
Sunny. Somewhat sheltered from the wind.
Boquet (WI2-WI4)
Park where the Boquet River crosses route 73.
Two hour approach hike, mostly on faint herd path. Careful at river crossing.
Possibly an easier approach from Round Pond.
Likely will need snowshoes and poles for approach.
Walk up far right.
Many lines possible if the ice is fat.
South facing, warm in the sun.
Harlot (WI3)
Park at the end of Mountain Lane, 0.9 miles from route 73.
COE vans will need chains to get up Mountain Lane.
Snowshoes mandatory in deep snow conditions.
Don't walk in the ski tracks on the Jackrabbit trail. Rangers will ticket you!
Sunny. Usually not too windy.
Walk up right.
Room for three ropes.
No other good options nearby if crowded.
Deer Brook (WI1)
Park on road 0.2 miles north of where Deer Brook crosses route 73
Easy multipitch option
Short TR (WI3) on far side of brook just above bridge
Hike up and down the private road. Note that vehicles are not allowed.
20 minute hike up the road.
Trail also follows Deer Brook to route 73, but conditions vary and might
be dangerous for students. Up the trail is easier than down. Crampons mandatory.
Mineville (WI4)
Just east of I87
Sunny and warm
Only wide enough for two ropes
Short approach
No other good options nearby if crowded.
Chiller Pillar (WI4)
Head toward Whiteface toll road, but take the right fork on Gillespie road, drive 1/4 mile and park
Sunny
Walk up right
Room for two, maybe three ropes
Short approach
No other good options nearby if crowded.
Lock Ness (WI3-WI4)
9N east toward Elizabethtown. About 3 miles east of 73, park near
telephone pole #121. Cross the stream and up a wooded but fairly open
ridge that diagonals up right. 15-25 minutes. I've been there twice and
the ice has been very thin both times. A few good topropes.
Underwood Canyon (WI4-WI5)
Beautiful location! Park about 0.3 miles south of malfunction junction.
At the private propery boundary, enter the woods west of the road and
follow the marked Underwood Trail for about an hour. After an uphill,
the entrance to the canyon will be visible on the right. Walk up either
side to set topropes. Shaded and sheltered from the wind.
Starbuck (WI3-WI5)
Much further south than all the climbs above, so useful on the last
day of class when headed home. Park at the giant red chair where
Cleveland Road intersects 28. Cross 28 and walk into the woods following
a trail for about 20 minutes. Starbuck right is the only area I've
explored. Walkup or lead to set ropes. South facing ice stays warm, but
melts out early in the season. Best when ice everywhere is still fat.
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HIKES
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******** BRING A HANDLINE ON EVERY SINGLE HIKE ********
Algonquin/Wright
$10 parking at Adirondack Loj
8 mile round trip
less distance up Wright, good option if group not moving fast enough
Snowshoes, poles, crampons probably needed
Bring a static line to create a handline at the steep step
Potentially very windy above treeline
Second highest peak in NY
Great views
Cascade
*****
NOTE: For Columbus Day 2017 the park service closed the Cascade trailhead
and had hikers park at the Van Hovenberg trailhead 1.3 miles west and use a
new connector trail. This was temporary, but may become permanent in the
future.
*****
Park at western end of Cascade Lakes
5 mile round trip
Snowshoes, poles, crampons probably needed
Potentially very windy above treeline
Great views
Roostercomb
Park at Roostercomb trailhead
5 mile round trip
Snowshoes, poles, maybe crampons
Very nice views
One short ladder to climb
Owl's Head
***** NOTE: AS OF 6/2017 OWL'S HEAD IS CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC *****
Drive 0.2 miles down Owl's Head road to trailhead, chains may be necessary
0.6 miles each way
Very nice views
Probably need snowshoes and poles, crampons unlikely to be needed
Noonmark
Go hike Mt. Marcy afterward
Hurricane
Don't climb the firetower
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CURRICULUM
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Prior to trip:
Icebreakers
Trim toenails!
Very spotty cell service
Talk clothing -- extra gloves/mittens in the oven at all times
Pack large enough to hold snowshoes
Eye protection
Size boots and crampons and snowshoes and gaiters, master putting them on
Talk about not flailing, stress that reaching the top is an artificial goal
Arriving at site:
Scene safety - What here will kill me?
Establish helmet zone, helmet on includes BUCKLING THE CHIN STRAP!
Walking in crampons - wider stance, slow, deliberate, gaiters helpful
Don't yard sale. Everything in your pack or zipped pockets!
Always have at least one pair of gloves/mittens in the oven
WATCH WHERE YOU STEP! DO NOT FREAKING STEP ON THE FREAKING ROPE!!!!!
Emily's Version 2/2019
First ask the students what kinds of hazards they might anticipate at the crag.
1. Falling ice / objects
-Always wear your helmet unless you are in the helmet-free zone
-If you go to the helmet-free zone, your helmet must be off (not just unclipped) -- it's
easy to forget about the chin strap and we won't be able to see that your helmet is on
incorrectly. (we might also want to add that helmets must be worn covering the forehead,
since a lot of helmets were slipping back during the class)
-While you're climbing, if you knock off a piece bigger than a basketball or drop an object,
yell "ice". You will be knocking off ice no matter what, so smaller pieces of ice don't
need to be announced.
-If someone yells "ice", move out of the way and look ahead instead of up (so that it hits
your helmet, not your face)
2. Crampons
-We're all wearing knives/sharp objects on our feet -- let's be careful!
-Walk carefully and slowly, with feet in a wider stance than usual
-Do not slide down anything in crampons! Step carefully.
-Be aware of where you're stepping -- your classmates won't like you if you put a hole in
their backpack. This is especially true of ropes, which will be on the ground!
-If you step on, kick, or stab a rope with your tool, please let instructors know so that we
can inspect it. Most of the time it will not be seriously damaged, but we want to ensure that
the rope is still safe so this is very important.
3. Temperature
-Keep a second set of gloves in your jacket so that they'll stay warm.
-You can walk around to try to warm up.
-Screaming barfies will pass and are not dangerous.
4. Being respectful at the crag
-Keep all your things in your pack and pockets zipped (this will keep your things from being stepped on,
falling down the cliff and breaking, or being annoying for other climbers to navigate around)
-If a rope is not being used, we will take it down so that other climbers at the crag can use that spot.
End by reviewing the four main points
Five to Ten Minute Lessons at the start of each day, end of each day, and
once each night in the cabin.
First climb lesson:
Swing: Hips in to swing, reach high, aim, SNAP WRIST
Kick: Hips out to kick, small steps, HEEL DOWN, TOE UP
Narrow tools, wide feet
Yes/No of cleaning tools
Tips for rock climbers: Don't high step, don't edge
Demo a climb on the first rope to be ready while the others are being set
NEVER EVER EVER LOOK AT THE TOOL WHEN WEIGHTING IT!!!!
Later lessons:
Movement: swing, kick, kick, kick, kick (squat, stand, swing)
Feet should be at the same level, tools should be staggered
Elbow near ear when swinging, aim for concave spots, not convex spots
Weight under highest placed tool
Bulges: feet high, resist temptation to move tools up
Practice placing and cleaning screws
Ablakovs
Screw anchors
Build a TR anchor on the ground and explain EARNEST
Cabin Lectures:
Tools: Mountaineering Axe vs Technical Tool
Footwear: microspikes, aluminum crampons, horizontal frontpoint, vertical
frontpoint, monopoint
Evaluating Ice (see below)
Frostbite vs. Screaming Barfies
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EVALUATING ICE
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The more I ice climb, the less I think I know about evaluating ice.
But I can usually stand on an ice cube without cracking it. Cool!
Source seep vs falls
also spray (eg. helmcken falls)
glacial ice (snow under pressure)
freezing rain (verglas)
Strength bonding (attachment to earth) and structure (strength of ice itself)
+bonding +structure = great ice
+bonding -structure = verglas
-bonding +structure = free standing pillar, ice with water behind
-bonding -structure = ice blocks you find at the base of a climb
Sun Can make the ice more plastic, but also bakes it out.
Causes large temperature variations through the ice which increases stress
(I made that up, but it might be true)
Causes sublimation and melting. Can make screws melt out rapidly.
Excavate surface ice to reach good ice underneath
So what has the temperature been like?
Ice can form in as little as two days, but usually more like a week
<0F brittle due to thermal stress, and less plastic to respond to stress
water source may freeze before it reaches the climb
<20F at night low 30s day: ideal! ice forms slowly making it dense,
ice heals with surface melting and refreezing
>32F at night: old ice may last for a long time, but bonding is
compromised and cracks don't heal