Travel --- 11/19/2005 - 12/27/2005 --- Tanzania
11/28 Hussein heads back to Dar to work on a project of his. Rachel, Nassor, Sophia and I head to Arusha. We see another fight in the bus stop. Rachel points out that these are sometimes staged as a distraction to allow pickpockets to work more efficiently. We reach Arusha fairly late and manage to get a double for 8000TSH ($6.80) at the Coyote Guest House. The shared bath even has a seat for the toilet. It isn't attached, but you can grab it off the floor and place it on the toilet. At dinner we run into Rachel's Peace Corps friends Todd and Rachel who are also making a return visit to Tanzania.
In Arusha it gets cool enough that I occasionally need to cover myself with a thin sheet at night. Blessed relief. It is still hot during the day. Not too hot for some though... I see plenty of young men walking around town in puffy jackets as I sweat out my t-shirt.
11/29 A rest day. We hand wash some laundry and book a safari in Arusha National Park. I manage to do an excellent job bargaining for something I don't want. While walking down the street, I mistakenly glance at a batik being sold by a street vendor. He follows me with the hard sell. "30000 my friend. Very good price. Hey my friend. Only 30000." I really don't want the batik, so I keep politely saying no and continue walking. He follows. 25000... 20000... 15000... He keeps following for several blocks. I still really don't want it. I'll never be accustomed to the way people here get cartoon dollar signs in their eyes when they see me. I keep walking. Finally, "6000. This is the price Africans get. No better price." 6000... no better price, unless I keep walking. 5000... 4000... At this point Rachel decides it is a good deal and she buys it from him. Everyone is impressed with my negotiation skills. I just didn't want the batik.
11/30 Early in the morning we are picked up by our driver in a little Suzuki Samurai. We drive to Arusha National Park and start looking at animals. In the morning we see many monkeys (Colobus, Baboon, Vervet), Warthogs, Cape Buffalo, Zebra, Giraffe and several species of birds. We go for a nice hike in the middle of the day. Of course, we get screwed out of $20 by our tour guide. The hike costs an additional $20, which we already paid the day before. But... oops... they forgot to bring the money. They promise promise promise we will get it back as soon as we return to the office. We know that money is gone. Damn scam artists. Anyhow, it is a nice hike. We are accompanied by an armed guard, who turns out to be a pleasant young man who knows quite a bit about the local flora and fauna. We see more Cape Buffalo, Giraffe and Warthogs while hiking to a waterfall where we eat lunch. On the hike back I spot two Dikdik which are very small antelope and usually hard to spot. We also listen to the pretty and unique call of the Tropical Bubu. Driving around the rest of the park in the afternoon, we see more Monkeys, Giraffe, Warthogs, Dikdik and Cape Buffalo. We also see Waterbuck, Bushbuck, and many birds (Cucoo, Hopo, Sacred Ibis, Flamingo).
12/1 The bus ride from hell. We are traveling from Arusha to Dar today. This is a 900km drive and even in the best conditions takes many hours. My guess is that the best conditions don't ever occur. We pay extra for seats with a reputable bus company that leaves on time and doesn't make extra stops along the way. The bus leaves two hours late and stops every time someone on the road waves some money. This happens pretty much every kilometer. It is nearly the time we are supposed to be in Dar, and we have only traveled about 200km. That's when the bus breaks down. The rear leaf spring breaks. I swear it had been held together with bicycle inner tubes. After three hours the leaf spring is replaced (though not the one on the other side of the bus which is also held together with inner tubes). We finally reach Dar late at night and take a taxi to Hanif's house. Hussein is waiting for us with food and ice. He is a hero to us all.
The bus companies all pick names like "Luxury Video Express Executive Coach Service." I quickly learn that they are listing all of the things that they _DON'T_ have on the bus. For what it is worth, Scandinavia Express is supposed to be an excellent bus company. They are significantly more expensive than the others, but potentially worth the cost if you want a comfortable ride. The other bus companies are hit or miss and quality does not correlate with price.
12/2 Recuperating from our bus ride. We spend several hours teaching Salma basic computer use and MS Word skills. She tells us the story of her latest fiasco at work. The government has provided medicine that the school is supposed to give to the students (I never learn what the medicine is for). The medicine is supposed to be taken with water. The students know this, but often forget to bring water from home. Since the school has no water, the students take the medicine without water. Then they get an upset stomach. At this point the parents come to the school and complain bitterly that their children are being poisoned.
12/3 We head to an artists market in downtown Dar. Some nice stuff on display, but nothing spectacular. We walk around Dar a bit. One thing about Tanzania, all your senses are engaged. The sights, sounds, smells and oppressive heat all constantly assault the brain with an overload of signals. Not to mention the daladalas which are enjoying their own game of Grand Theft Auto: Dar Es Salaam.
We take the ferry to Kigamboni and have dinner with Salma. On the ferry ride back to the mainland, Hamza spots a daladala on the ship. He gets us all seats, so we are headed back to Hanif's house the moment the ferry docks. Hamza gets the hero award for the day.
12/4 Mostly a rest day as we prepare to head out to Morogoro and Mvomero tomorrow.
Trying to figure out who all the people are? Check out this genealogy chart that Rachel and Hussein made for me so I could identify all the family members we met.
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Tanzania Map Arusha, Tanzania -- 11/28/2005 |
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Arusha market. Arusha, Tanzania -- 11/28/2005 |
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Arusha market. Arusha, Tanzania -- 11/28/2005 |
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Fruit still life. Mangoes, Bananas, Pineapple, Lime, Sugar Cane. Arusha, Tanzania -- 11/28/2005 |
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Randomly meeting Rachel and Scott. Arusha, Tanzania -- 11/28/2005 |
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Northern Tanzania Map. One nice thing about digital cameras is that you can photograph maps instead of buying them. Arusha, Tanzania -- 11/29/2005 |
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Arusha National Park Map. Arusha, Tanzania -- 11/29/2005 |
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Young Warthogs Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Warthog Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Black and White Colobus Monkey. The most arboreal of monkeys, the Colobus rarely descends from the treetops. Makes it hard to get pictures. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Black and White Colobus Monkey Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Black and White Colobus Monkey Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Baboon Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Baboon Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Baboon Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Baboon Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Baboon Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Cape Buffalo Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Bee Eater Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Bee Eater Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Baboon Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Baboon Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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I believe this is a Vervet Monkey. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe and Zebra Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Hiking the base of Mt. Meru. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Hiking the base of Mt. Meru. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Cape Buffalo Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Cape Buffalo Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Waterfall Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Our hiking guide at the base of the waterfall. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Don't know the species of this bird. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Warthogs and a Bushbuck(?) in the background. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Zebra Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Zebra Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Zebra Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Zebra Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Zebra Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Sacred Ibis Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe walking along a ridge. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Unknown species of bird. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Giraffe Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Flamingos Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Flamingos Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Flamingos Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Flamingos Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Flamingos Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Flamingos Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Flamingos Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Waterbuck Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Waterbuck Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Waterbuck Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Waterbuck Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Typical landscape Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Bushbuck Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Waterbuck Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Zebra Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Warthog Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Little Savannah -- Warthogs, Zebra and Cape Buffalo Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Little Savannah -- Warthogs, Zebra and Cape Buffalo Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Little Savannah -- Warthogs, Zebra and Cape Buffalo Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Little Savannah with a beautiful rainbow. One of the most amazing things I've ever seen in my life. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Little Savannah with a beautiful rainbow. One of the most amazing things I've ever seen in my life. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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An amusing sign at the park entrance. Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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Nassor, Rachel and Sophia looking out the sunroof of our Suzuki Samurai. Are we taking liberties with the animals? Arusha National Park, Tanzania -- 11/30/2005 |
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They call these trees Christmas Trees because they bloom in December. On the road from Arusha to Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania -- 12/1/2005 |
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Replacing the leaf spring during the bus ride from hell. On the road from Arusha to Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania -- 12/1/2005 |
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Computer training. Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania -- 12/2/2005 |
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Computer training. Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania -- 12/2/2005 |
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Computer training. Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania -- 12/2/2005 |
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Combo and Salma Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania -- 12/2/2005 |
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Boats at the ferry terminal on Kigamboni. Kigamboni, Tanzania -- 12/3/2005 |
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Me and Hamza Kigamboni, Tanzania -- 12/3/2005 |
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An old picture of Hussein's family that Salma had. I took a picture of the picture. Kigamboni, Tanzania -- 12/3/2005 |
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Old family photo key: |