Epic On Your Own Time:  Headlamps, Helicopters and Hospitals

Friday - Jason, Carla, Sylvan and I drove to Fairfax and spent the night with Carla's parents.

Saturday - A relaxing day, then a late flight from Dulles to Vegas.  I had a whole row of three seats to myself on the plane, so I got some sleep.  In Vegas, Ryan had a tent site reserved (good thing because the campground is full) and had purchased water and white gas for us.  Ryan was our hero!  Got to sleep around 1am, which is 4am east coast time.

Sunday - Leisurely morning.  Carla and I plan to climb Cat In The Hat (5.7 variation) while Jason cares for Sylvan.  A late start means we reach the base of the climb at noon.  Heavy snowfall pelts me while I lead the first pitch.  As far as I can remember, this is my first time climbing in heavy snow.  Then the weather clears a bit and we even get some sun.  We were behind a party of three, but just as I was about to catch them, I had to downclimb half the second pitch to free a rope which was stuck on a shrub.  The climb is classically six pitches, but we did it in four by extending p1 and p2, then combining the last two pitches with the mild 5.7 variation which diagonals up and right along a nice crack.  I'm using my new Black Diamond ATC Guide on this climb.  I've played with it at Lindseth, but this is the first time I've used it outdoors.  This is the review I wrote about it for Gunks.com:

I got this device about two weeks ago. Played with it for two days in the climbing gym, then took it to Red Rocks for a week. I've never owned a reverso because I don't mind belaying off my harness and I do sometimes have to lower a second. Far and away my favorite belay device is the Trango Jaws. I find it gives tons of friction when I need friction and feeds smoothly when I need it to feed. I bought the Guide in hopes that it would be as good a tube device as the Jaws and give me autolock capability when I felt like using it.

In tube mode, the Guide has a decent amount of friction, though not as much as Jaws. The Guide is fairly smooth to use, but not as smooth as the Jaws. There is a good amount of metal in this device and it dissipates heat well on rappel. In autolock mode it locks tight, but is very hard to feed ropes larger than 10mm. Tried using two 10.6mm single ropes (needed two for the rappel and that was all we had), and it was virtually impossible pull rope through the Guide in autolock mode (and very difficult in tube mode). Testing at the gym with thinner ropes it seems to work very well. I did not test with ropes thinner than 9mm, but I expect the Guide to work well with thin ropes.

For hauling, it is possible to set a 3:1 pulley using the Guide, but it is very hard to haul. A 5:1 pulley will probably be necessary for most hauling. This is easy to do and it is nice to not have to escape the belay to haul. Lowering is made a bit easier by using the small tab on the end of the device. An 11mm sling can be crammed through the tab, but it works better with an 8mm sling. Playing with it in the gym, I think the best way to lower a climber is to girth hitch an 8mm sling to the power point of the anchor, then thread through the release tab. Now you have a 2:1 pulley which you lift up. This makes it much easier to let go and return to locking mode which helps prevent "dropped climber syndrome" that seems to be common with this sort of device. Be sure to have good control of the brake strand (redirect if necessary) before pulling the release.

Overall an excellent device if you use ropes of 10mm or less.

Enough about the ATC Guide... We reached the summit at 4pm.  This is where the epic begins.

Our first rappel was a double rope descent to the previous belay.  At that belay we couldn't pull the ropes, even with full body weight from both of us.  Luckily we still had both ends, so I was able to prussik up 140' to the top anchor.  It was very tiring.  I was high stepping my foot prussik with every move to make faster progress.  For about 25' of lower angle rock I was hoisting myself on a munter with Carla providing a fireman's belay.  This was also difficult and not much faster.  Reaching the top, I found that one chain had been sucked into the other and pinched the rope.  Now I see very clearly -- the correct strategy is to use the upper quicklink on the right chain, not the bottom link.  Untangling the rope I descend to Carla, who is cold from standing around waiting for me the whole time.  It is cold and dark, but we have reasonable clothing and lights.  We should have no problem reaching the ground.  That's when the helicopter shows up.

Unfortunately, Carla had no cell reception and I had left my GMRS radio in my pack at the base of the climb (my most serious mistake this entire trip).  We had shouted to folks hiking out to tell Jason that we had a stuck rope and would be late.  They passed the message, and Jason was able to see our headlamps from the parking lot.  He blinked his headlights and Carla blinked her headlamp in acknowledgement.  But at some point Carla sent three flashes.  That was enough for Jason to call 911.  He didn't want a helicopter, just someone to walk in and see if we were ok.  But Vegas PD sends a helicopter.  Carla and I could do nothing but continue to rappel.  All the while the helicopter is making pass after pass through this narrow canyon at night.  That was the most scary part for me.  Carla was terrified that she would be charged $15,000 and lose the downpayment on her house.  We were moving slowly because we were cold and tired and it was dark.  We were taking extra care and double checking each other with every single step.  But we were making progress, and I hoped that the helicopter could see that.  At one point the rappel line tied itself into a slip knot when we pulled it from a higher anchor.  Luckily the knot didn't catch on anything and we were able to retrieve the end of the rope.

Around 8pm we reached the ground.  We gathered our gear and started to hike out.  After ten minutes of hiking we were warm and comfortable.  That is when we saw headlamps coming the other way.  Jim and Steve with the Las Vegas Police Search and Rescue.  How embarrassing.  I thanked them profusely for coming and told them to call off the helicopter.  We had food, water, and were plenty warm enough.  They called the eight rescue vehicles in the parking lot and told everyone to go home.  Probably disappointed the doctor who was volunteering his time there.  He told Jason, "Don't get me wrong, I hope your wife is ok, but I really love these rescues!"  We hiked out with Jim and Steve.  They were very nice guys and didn't fault us for what happened.  I asked about the helicopter.  They told me it was standard procedure.  The pilot navigates with night vision goggles.  Vegas PD has a copter in the air from 8am to 4am seven days a week.  Pretty cool.  They congratulated us on self rescuing and for having someone who knew where we were and when to expect us back.

Jason was very happy to see us.  Ryan and Kyle came when we didn't return to camp and were waiting with a warm car (which we didn't need after a 2 mile hike with heavy packs, but it was a very considerate gesture).  Jason suggested that we go out to dinner and spend the night in a hotel.  Carla and I just wanted to go back to the campsite, eat some mac and cheese, and sleep in our tents.  The rescuers said we were hard core.  Cool!  Even better, there was no charge for the rescue.  Very Cool!

Monday - Slept in a bit to recover from the previous day's epic.  We climbed at Cannibal Boulder in Calico Basin.  Jason and I were climbing, and Carla was able to bring Sylvan up the short approach.  Jason led the 5.11b variation of Suck Upon My Baseboy.  I was able to follow it (neither of us got it clean) and Carla had a chance to give the climb a try as well.  Then I led What's Eating You (5.10a) on the north face of the boulder.  I had to hang at the first bolt because I was afraid of the moves just after.  They were actually quite easy, but my lead head wasn't in good condition.  Jason followed the climb cleanly, and I climbed it cleanly on toprope to clean the anchor.

That was enough for us for the day.  We were eyeing Caustic (5.11b) on the prow of the boulder, slightly to the south side.  It is a gorgeous looking line.  Very photogenic.  I'd love to give that a go some day.  Looks like a stick clip would be nice for the first bolt.  We drove the scenic loop road and saw a helicopter rescue at the first pullout.  So I was able to get some helicopter rescue pictures to go with my story.  Carla and I walked to the scene and found Jim and Steve after the victim (broken leg) had been airlifted.  They posed for pictures with us and introduced us to another rescue squad member who had been preparing to drop in on us from the helicopter.  He was very glad we were able to self rescue.

In the evening I walk to the campsite of a couple we had met during the day.  They have directions to a hot springs and I would love to go for a soak.  I never make it to the hot springs on this trip, but I'm transcribing the directions here so that I can give it a try on my next trip.  Sorry if this means that someone's secret location is advertised on the web... at least there won't be many people who see it on my site.

From Vegas, drive across the Hoover Dam.  Turn right just after the dam at mile marker 4.  Drive downhill to a parking lot with a trailhead.  Hike the trail.  Take a right at the first fork (early).  Take the first obvious, early drainage on the right.  Follow this drainage/canyon to the Colorado River.  Follow the trail (painted white arrow blazes) for a half mile as it goes in and out from the shore.  Go up the drainage that has a bit of water trickling out.  Climb up the ladder and into the hot spring.

Update: So I've still never made it to those hot springs, though Mark took some of the students there in 2008 and had a great time. Meanwhile, Heidi has recommended a closer, less populated hot springs (which I also haven't tried).

There is also another hot spring that is a lot less populated and in my opinion more fun to get to. It also doesn't require you to go over the dam so if you're coming from Las Vegas, it is much quicker to get there. Those hot springs are called Gold Strike Hot Springs. The pools there are bigger and it's more of a scramble than a hike to get to them. Here are directions to the trailhead. Just a heads up, I stole the trail directions from a nudist website and it's definitely a very popular hang out for nudists. Again, don't dunk your head or splash water into your nose.

From Las Vegas, take I-515/US Hwy 93/95 south through Henderson, and stay on Hwy 93 south to Boulder City at Railroad Pass. Continue south on US 93 through Boulder City toward Hoover Dam (from the intersection of US 93 and Buchanan in Boulder City, it's about 4 miles to the Alan Bible visitor center, located at the left turnoff from Hwy 93 to Boulder Beach). As you pass the main entrance to the Hacienda Hotel & Casino (used to be named Goldstrike before it burned down), reset your vehicle trip odometer. At .5 miles past the Hacienda entrance, look for an opening in the guardrail on the right side of the highway, with a dirt road sloping down from the highway. This is the turnoff to the trailhead. Be sure to slow down before you get to this point, as it's more than a 90 degree right turn and a steep drop from the highway shoulder. If you're approaching this road from the Hoover Dam, look for a brown sign with white lettering that informs travelers to tune in to your radio to 1610AM for Lake Mead info. This sign is located at the end of a paved turnout, and the road to the trailhead is directly across the highway.

Follow the dirt road to the bottom of the hill, take the first left, and continue down the wash for less than 1/4 mile. This road is passable with 2WD passenger cars. The road ends where the canyon starts to narrow. Find a parking spot, and start hiking down the canyon. The hike is along mostly gravel wash at the bottom of Goldstrike Canyon. There are a couple of boulder jams along the way to negotiate, but nothing too difficult. It's about 2 miles to the first set of hot spring pools. Most people stop there, since these are the best soaking pools in the canyon. It's about another half mile to the Colorado River from the first pools. The lower canyon is the most difficult to hike, with several large boulders, some steep drops, and tamarisk and cat's claw trees providing obstacles. Ropes are usually present at a couple of the tougher boulder scrambles. Near the Colorado River, also called upper Lake Mohave, there's another set of warm pools and a hot shower flowing from the canyon wall. From there, it's about 100 yards to the refreshing waters of the river (53 degrees F year-round).

Tuesday - It stormed all night.  Strong winds and pouring rain which turned to snow by morning.  The sandstone is very brittle after rain, so all sensible climbers wait for 24 hours and some solid sunshine before climbing after a heavy rain storm.  I shout from my tent that, "I am strong but the rock is weak."  Then go back to sleep.  There is some limestone which is climbable after rain, but it is mostly at higher elevations and covered with snow at this point.

We spent the day doing tourist stuff.  Drove the loop road to take pictures.  Went to a children's museum.  Drove to the top of Mt. Charleston, southern Nevada's highest peak at 11,915'.

Wednesday - Sunny and slightly warmer.  With thin, dry air our comfort is very dependent on whether or not we are receiving direct sun.  When the sun hits my tent it gets quite warm (especially in my zero degree bag).  I wake to a laugh as I hear Jason say, "No, no Sylvan!  That's not apple juice.  Daddy's just not well hydrated."  We drive to the second pullout where Carla and I hike in to climb.  Our first climb is Meister's Edge (5.11a).  We find a stick clip and use it to get the initial bolt.  From there I struggle and struggle.  I can't believe this climb is 11a.  It is ferociously hard.  Finally I leave a biner on the next to last bolt and bail.

We hike to The Gallery and have a much better time.  There is a friendly crowd with everyone chatting, sharing routes and basking in the sun.  The grid bolted sandstone and happy climbers reminds me of Roadside at Red River Gorge.  I lead Gelatin Pooch (5.10a) and Carla follows.  Then Carla leads Sport Climbing Is Neither (5.8 and a funny name) which I follow.  Then we climb the 5.11a variation of Gridlock.  I manage to lead the climb with a bunch of hangs.  Even though Red Rocks grades are notoriously soft, I'm psyched to have led my first 11.  Carla followed and got up the climb with a few hangs.  Then I climbed it cleanly on toprope.  I know I could redpoint this sweet climb, but others are waiting to hop on it.  We finish the day with Carla leading Buck's Muscle World (5.9) and hike back to the car.

Thursday - Jason has been feeling poorly and after a phone consultation with a Gannett nurse, he decides he needs to go to the hospital.  This turns out to be the correct decision, though that isn't obvious for about 12 hours.  We all go to the emergency room and endure the chaos that is a big city hospital.  Carla points out that, "This hospital has so many unhealthy people."  Carla and I take Sylvan to Circus Circus where we enjoy the free show.  We see a very impressive contortionist, an excellent slackliner, a juggling clown, and an aerial act on a vertical rope.  We drive the loop road and see some of the wild burros (who are casually walking the road begging for food).

Friday - Jason is still in the hospital.  Carla honestly doesn't need my help with anything.  Feeling a bit guilty, I head off to climb with Ryan and Kyle.  Our goal is Black Orpheus, 5.9+ IV.  This will be Ryan and Kyle's first grade IV climb.  I did one in Australia, Margarine Ridge, but it was only 5.6.  Ryan and Kyle had attempted the climb on Thursday, but didn't find the base until noon.  Today we are awake at first light and drive to the loop road before the gate opens.  At 6am we are the first car in the park.  By 6:20am we are at the trailhead and speed hiking to the base of the climb.  At 7:10am we drop our packs at the base of a 600' 3rd class scramble to the start of the climb.  By 8:10am we are roped up and Kyle is leading the first pitch.

It was very nice of Ryan and Kyle to allow me to join them.  I do my best to not slow the group down.  I don't expect to get any leads, but I'm happy to be along for the climb.  After the first pitch, Ryan leads all but one of the remaining ten pitches.  He quickly builds a belay anchor and puts us both on with a reverso.  Kyle immediately starts cleaning the pitch while I break down the previous anchor.  We climb together and even alternate cleaning gear if one or the other is slowing down a bit.  In this manner we cover six pitches in three hours.  Pretty impressive for a party of three.  Pretty impressive period.  The weather is beautiful -- warm, sunny and no wind.  The south facing climb is actually shaded by large buttresses more often than you might expect, but I'm generally comfortable in my polypro.

We get off route a bit, but recover nicely and reach the base of p8.  This is the first hard pitch at 5.9.  Ryan leads it and we follow, but one at a time.  Same process for the next pitch which is the crux at 5.9+.  After that we have a stiff 5.7 pitch and a fun 5.5 pitch to the top.  We are back to simul-seconding these pitches.  After 600' of scrambling and 1500' of roped climbing in eleven pitches, we reach the top of the climb at 3:45pm.  Time to snap a few pictures, finish the last of our food and water, and immediately start the long descent.  Two double rope rappels gets us down about 350' to the upper painted bowl.  From here it is a scary 3rd class walk all the way down.  I'm seriously wishing I had brought my comfy shoes up this climb.  My feet are killing me.  After two hours we reach the Oak Creek drainage, were we spend nearly another hour rock hopping the 700 yards back to our packs.  We blissfully change into our approach shoes just as the sun is setting.  I have more water in my pack which gives everyone a bit of energy.  We turn on our headlamps and continue the scramble out.  Soon we reach gentle trail and enjoy the beautiful night hike back to the car.  We reach the car at 7:20pm, 13 hours after we left it.

The amazing thing is that we were moving very fast the whole time and we had perfect weather.  Still, we barely finished the scary walkoff before dark.  I would hate to do that scramble by headlamp.  In some ways I think grade IV is the hardest grade because you expect to finish the climb in a day and don't have bivy gear.  At least with grade V you expect to spend the night.  Maybe a Baffin Island grade VI is a bit harder than grade IV :-) 

As soon as we are in cell phone range, I check on Jason's condition (feeling guilty again for climbing while my poor partner lay in the hospital).  I'm very happy to hear that he is doing better and will not require surgery.  He expects to be released Saturday morning.  Relieved and famished back at camp, I eat a box of couscous, half a jar of peanut butter and a triple mug of hot chocolate.  Exhausted and with aching feet, I quickly fall asleep.

Saturday - I pack gear while Carla checks on Jason.  The hospital is slow and they aren't ready to discharge him.  So Carla comes back to camp and we pack everything into the car.  Finally we are able to get Jason out of the hospital.  He is weak but feeling much better.  We decide to try a last bit of climbing.  Back to Cannibal Boulder.  Jason is relaxing with Sylvan while Carla and I climb.  I clip the high first bolt on What's Eating You so Carla can lead it.  I then follow the climb.  This lets me know how tired I am from the previous day's climbing because the climb feels much harder than when I led  it earlier in the week.  Carla gives it a second lead to attempt the redpoint.  We then both lead A Man In Every Pot (5.8+) which is a fun little climb.  Finally I lead Mac & Ronnie In Cheese (5.10a) which has nasty rivets and homemade hangars at the second and third bolts.  Because of this I recommend that Carla TR the climb, which she does.  At this point we are both done for the day.

As we finish climbing, another storm front moves in and the winds start whipping.  Good to be done with our spring break. We get some dinner and drive to the airport for our redeye flight back home.  The Vegas airport has hilarious TSA videos at the security checkpoint and excellent TCBY in the terminal.  I order a large.

Sunday - At 6am we arrive in DC.  There we are met by Carla's dad who takes us to his house where we can nap and shower before driving back to Ithaca.