Rock Climbing --- 12/26/2007 - 1/17/2008 --- Sun Valley, Idaho and Potrero Chico, Mexico
Sorry this isn't as long and detailed as some of my stories. I tried to at least include all the funny bits. Which is really the only important part anyhow, right? As always, first names only... no worries about being Google Stalked due to my web page.
12/26 Promptly at midnight Keith, Aramy and I depart Ithaca. We drive to Rochester and find Beth waiting for us at the airport. From there, it is about 36 hours of driving to Idaho. Keith drives almost the whole way.
12/27 We arrive in Sun Valley around 4pm. Find Kristin and her family, then eat dinner and sleep.
12/28 Skiing at Sun Valley. Conditions are pretty good, though we get no new snow the entire week we are here. Each day there is fresh powder in the southern bowls thanks mostly to wind deposited snow. Of course, the resort is making snow like crazy day and night. Still, by New Year's Day there are rocks and sticks showing through many trails.
We discover the resort's hot tub. It is a huge, outdoor swimming pool heated to 102F. Very nice. I don't think we miss a night there while in Idaho.
12/29 More skiing. We are playing lots and lots of games on this trip. Cranium, Schafskopf, Boggle, Psoy, Rummy 500, Hearts, Spades, Texas Hold 'Em. It is fantastic! Wendy is the first person I've ever met outside of my college roommates who plays Schafskopf. A few minor variations in the rules confuses me at first, but it ends up making the game more fun... I always enjoy a change of pace. Anyhow, Kristin and Beth quickly learn the game and we play almost every day for the rest of the trip.
Best moments from Cranium... chicken magnet and sevan elevan. Not to pick on Brian and Cameron, they hold their own in every contest and totally clean up in poker.
12/30 Rest day. A huge blizzard is forecast, but nothing materializes. We all go bowling.
Funniest moment of the day? When Keith is parked in front of the snooty hotel and a snooty valet comes to his window and says, "Excuse me sir, could you please move your car? You are blocking EVERYTHING."
12/31 Skiing. Personally, my best day of skiing. It has been about four years since I was downhill skiing (and three since I was snowboarding). Why the long hiatus? Not sure. Guess my winter focus had been on cross-country skiing and ice climbing. Anyhow, by the third day back on skis I am feeling pretty good on all the slopes. My skiing may not be great, but it is good enough and I am having lots of fun.
At lunch, somebody takes one of Aramy's poles. One pole? Why? Oh well, he gets snazzy new poles from the local shop and is happy with their clip-in wrist straps. At the end of the day, someone takes Justine's rental skis. Luckily it is actually an accident and the guilty party returns her skis to the rental shop. I begin to lock my skis and poles all the time. Even when I'm wearing them. You can never be too careful.
New Year's Eve! And Keith's birthday! Hurrah! Auld Lang Syne (whatever the heck that is... I think it should be forgot and never brought to mind)! We play cards and are in bed before midnight.
1/1/08 Skiing. Of course.
After the requisite hot tub trip, we pack our stuff. Kristin's family provides a huge service by taking all our ski gear back to Wisconsin. We cram five people and climbing gear into the van and start driving at 11pm. Idaho to Texas.
1/2 Driving. The 2001 Space Odyssey is in bed mode. Driver and shotgun up front. Three people sleeping in back. Very comfortable. Kristin causes a moment of incredulous silence followed by raucous laughter when she misspeaks an innocent question. And if you think I'm repeating it here, where her parents can read it, you are crazy. I'm doing my best to keep this story rated G. Luckily, it usually isn't hard. That is the exact sentiment to which Beth gave voice earlier.
1/3 We reach Laredo as the sun comes up and enjoy a nice breakfast at IHop... thanks Wendy! The rest of the day is spent buying groceries, making minor repairs to the van and retrieving Kenny from the airport. We spend the night in a cheap motel.
1/4 We drive into Mexico. The directions in Magic Ed's Potrero Select guidebook are excellent. Border crossing, visa payment, car registration, and drive to Hidalgo all go smoothly. We reach the La Posada campground and set our tents in what we hope will be a quiet corner. La Posada is $5/person/night and has potable water, hot showers (as long as people don't shower before you), wireless internet and a fully equipped kitchen.
It is fairly late in the day, but there is enough time for some climbing. We head to Virgin Wall and get on a bunch of single pitch climbs. We all climb Mr. Patacca (5.9+), Mr. Gilberto (5.10c) and Mr. Jesus (5.10b). Aramy, Keith and Kenny work Faded Love (5.11d) until dark.
1/5 Kristin's Birthday! Beth and I climb Space Boyz (5.10d, 11 pitches) to the sixth pitch. Everyone else is on the next climb to the right, Black Cat Bone (5.10d, 9 pitches). Beth and I meet Magic Ed and his pack of dogs. We have no ice cream for Kristin, but she still manages to enjoy her birthday since we play games of Rummy and Schafskopf. Kristin wins every game. It isn't that we let her win on her birthday, it is just that Kristin wins most games of Rummy and Schafskopf every day (except the days Beth wins Rummy).
1/6 We intend to find some easy single pitch climbs, but end up lost at the top of a huge 4th class canyon. The new routes here are very difficult. We spend most of the day getting thrashed on something that shuts down even Keith and Kenny. Listen to Keith talk about just one of the clipping stances. What is wrong with people today? Why can't they get real jobs?
With rocks coming off the top, Keith abandons a draw and we all head back to town to buy groceries. At least we find ice cream cake for Kristin.
Highlight of the evening is a game of Texas Hold 'Em. Kristin gets tired of playing and decides to bet like crazy without looking at her hand. Everyone bets against her, smelling easy money. Turns out she has a pocket pair of Aces and she wins a huge pot. We also play Cranium for the last time... we have gone through all the cards. This is the second edition of Cranium we have played out since early December.
1/7 Head to Mini Super to actually find some easy single pitch climbs. Kristin and I start with Honor Among Thieves (5.8) while Keith rope solos Leftover Man (5.9). We also climb El Volvo Scorcho (5.9) and Aramy spends most of the day working Muffin Man (5.11c/d).
We finish early and prep for a long day on Time Wave Zero tomorrow. Hoping to get a good night's sleep, we retire early. Unfortunately the confused rooster, random horses, barking dogs and deranged cat make noise all night (this night and most every night). Especially the deranged cat. Beth does a really good impersonation, but I don't recommend asking her to perform for you. Who wants to hear a deranged cat?
1/8 Wake at 6am for Time Wave Zero (5.12, 23 pitches, grade IV). Keith and Kenny are the first rope team, Aramy and I are right behind them (Kristin and Beth head to the market then enjoy some single pitch climbing). We attempt to sneak past the sleeping troll to no avail and have to explain that we didn't bring any money. Then hike up past the Spires and Outrage Wall to Surfbowl and the start of Time Wave Zero. We have never been here before, but find the start of the climb with relative ease. Keith and Kenny move quickly up the first pitch and Aramy and I start climbing a bit after 8am.
Aramy leads p1, and I get p2 which goes at 5.11a. I attempt to go left at the crux, following Keith and Kenny. Unfortunately, I'm not a mutant and I can't pull through steep bulges on tiny crimpers with no feet. Keith puts my rope through the anchors so I can at least batman up, then I try the climb going right. The crux yields easily with big reaches to decent pockets. After that the climbing eases. Aramy links pitches 3 and 4. I link 5, 6 and 7 with about 80' of simulclimbing. Pitch 8 is a 2nd class traverse to the start of the next pitch. Aramy links pitches 9 and 10, finishing the 5.10b crack pitch with ton of rope drag. I lead 11 and 12, Aramy leads 13 and 14, then I lead 15 (which is the first really fun bit since pitch 2). It is now noon and we are at the high point we will reach for the day. 15 pitches in under four hours, not bad! But it is the hottest day of the trip and we are both completely out of water. The next pitch is 5.10d and neither of us wants to lead it. We know we aren't going to get past the 5.12 pitch guarding the summit, and we have had an excellent day. We bid adios to Keith and Kenny and begin our descent.
Like every other multipitch climb we descend at Potrero, we have to rappel every pitch. So we always choose to simulrap. I've done it before, but never so much as on this trip. Does cut the time significantly. We can average about 7 minutes a pitch when rappelling 10 or more pitches. We spend some time relaxing at the small bivy on pitch 12, then zip down the remaining pitches. We are out of range of the huge rockfall which showers debris on us and everyone in Surfbowl. Back on the ground we meet the girls and walk back to camp for showers, food and cards. Keith and Kenny return exhausted but triumphant around 9:30pm.
1/9 Kristin and Beth head off to climb Super Nova (5.11a, 8 pitches). I go with them to take pictures. Kristin leads the 5.11a first pitch and takes her first lead fall (John and Wendy, don't worry, it was totally safe). Not completely content with a full rest day, I get on the first pitch and lead it onsight. One of my few 5.11 onsights. Then I'm good for the day and happy to go back to taking pictures.
Julia and Jess fly into Monterrey to join us. Our crew now numbers eight and we have achieved gender parity. I notice several times that we appear to attract more attention now, and I realize that four blonde women are an unusual sight in Mexico. Or maybe people are checking out the four grungy boys. Not sure.
1/10 Kristin and I climb Space Boyz. I'm excited to get another shot at this classic climb. And I take the opportunity to lead the pitches which I hadn't led when climbing with Beth. I fall once leading pitch 7 (5.10c) because I misread the sequence. Kristin onsights the entire climb, including her lead of the crux 5.10d pitch. We reach the summit around 2:30pm and enjoy one of the best views in town. Then it is 12 rappels to the ground, which takes us exactly 90 minutes.
Space Boyz is possibly the best climb in Potrero. Pitches 5, 6, and 7 make 300' of stellar climbing (5.10a, 5.10d, 5.10c, all reasonably sustained) -- equal to any climb at the Gunks.1/11 Rest day. Kristin and I make pancakes. Aramy and Beth climb a few pitches on Space Boyz then the four of us walk to the market to buy produce.
1/12 Beth and I get an early start on Treasure of Sierra Madre (5.10c, 7 pitches). It is cold in the morning, then hot when the sun hits us a bit after 10am. The climb goes well, but I'm double-stupid-boy for the day. I drop one of Kristin's draws 600' to the ground. This is only the second thing I've ever dropped in over a decade of climbing (the other was a $2.50 disposable camera). The second part of my double-stupid day was rappelling right past the jackets we stashed on pitch 3. So that means reclimbing the first three pitches (including the crux 5.10c pitch) late in the day when we are tired and out of water. Sigh. P.S. I do compensate Kristin for the gear I've ruined once we return to Ithaca.
In the evening all eight of us eat at the excellent restaurant (a Mexican restaurant) attached to La Posada. I think I'd eat there more often next trip. Dinner costs about $7. Which is a more than the $2.20/person/day the eight of us average for groceries, but still not expensive.
1/13 All eight of us head to Mini Super Wall for a day of cragging. We climb Pimpanada (5.9) and Empanada (5.10c). Keith and Kenny onsight everything, including El Curandero (5.12a), La Presa (5.11b) and Bone Factory (5.12b). I spend the rest of the day trying to redpoint La Pressa (5.11b). Or as I put it, "This is my fourth onsight attempt. Wish me luck." Aramy spends the day trying to redpoint El Curandero.
1/14 Julia picks a good day to depart. There is rain all day. Kristin, Beth and I hike to an old mine. We learn that Walmart tents are great for days when you don't actually need a tent. All of my clothes are soaking wet.
1/15 More rain. We walk to the market.
1/16 Sun is back! All my clothes are on the line to dry and I'm back on the rock to climb. Beth and I head up Yankee Clipper (5.10c, 13 pitches -- 2 optional pitches to second summit, 5.12). We are right behind Keith and Kristin. All four of us have a marvelous time. This climb is a fantastic way to end the trip. Perfect!
We head back to camp and eat the last of our food. After loading the minivan, everyone lounges or naps until our 2:45am departure time. Which turns into a 1:45am wake up call for our tent as my watch is set for the wrong time zone. Sorry Kristin and Beth.
1/17 Long but easy day flying home. Jinmi picks me up in Syracuse and I have a nice dinner with her, Josh, Jen, Jill and family.
Epilog Driving across two countries to combine skiing and climbing makes for a fantastic winter break. Potrero is amazing! A 60m rope and a dozen draws will suffice for a vast majority of climbs. Though a 70m rope will make your life easier, and 24 draws will let you link pitches on long climbs (very, very convenient). You don't need a car to access the climbs or marketplace. La Posada is cheap and even cheaper options are available if you look around. Those stuck with English-only skills will get by, though a bit of Spanish is quite useful. The limestone cliffs make for fun climbing and most every climb is well bolted. Loose rock abounds, so don't even think about climbing without a helmet unless you bring a spare head. We climbed in t-shirts every day when we were in the sun. Usually needed a light jacket for climbing in the shade and a decent jacket for the evenings. It was much colder just before we arrived, so bring at least one warm jacket and a rain shell.