Rock Climbing --- 8/23/2008 - 8/26/2008 --- Rumney
Jen and I drove down Saturday, arriving around 5:30pm. We walked to a grid bolted section of Parking Lot Wall and managed to get five climbs before dark. We climbed Glory Jean's (5.6), Easily Amused (5.7), Easily Aroused (5.9), Rise and Shine (5.7), and Egg McMeadows (5.9+). And I saw a big fat porcupine waddling along the trail. We setup camp at the farm across the road ($8/person/night and they don't pump the port-a-potties often enough!) ate dinner and went to sleep. Everyone else arrived late at night. I never even heard them.
All eleven of us are off to Vader Wall. I lead Obi Wan Ryobi (5.9+) cleanly and then use every rope trick I know to clean Kenny's lead of Stormtroopers (5.12c). Later I lead Yoda (5.9). Obi Wan and Yoda are two of the best climbs at Rumney and are always crowded which is why I didn't climb them when I was here last year.
We head to 5.8 Crag and climb Asbury Park (5.7), Snake Skin Slab (5.8), and The Terrace (5.8). I lead Bolt and Run (5.9+) and have to hang which is particularly frustrating because I onsighted the climb a year ago. It isn't that hard, don't be such a wimp. Mike and a few others climb Romancing the Stone (5.10c) which is a really cool climb. With that we are done for the day. After dinner we get one of Mike's pyro shows on the beach, then make smores by the campfire. I like mine without marshmallows and graham crackers.
Monday we got to Main Wall where I lead Gold Digger (5.8+), toprop Underdog (5.10a) an area classic, toprop Goldbug (5.10d), and lead the first pitch of Rock Du Jour (5.7). Everyone is tired and we call it a day early. We all go for a nice swim (ahhh... vanilla shampoo) then I drive off to see Lindsay who lives nearby.
Everyone starts the day on Jimmy Cliff and Clip A Dee Doo Dah -- I climbed them last year and I'm happy to miss the climbs in favor of a long breakfast with Lindsay. When I arrive, I get to follow Kenny's lead of Hammond Organ (5.10d) which I get clean. Then we are all off to Bonsai where I onsight Masterpiece (5.10a), follow Peer Pressure (5.10d) cleanly and onsight War and Peace (5.9+). Today is a good climbing day, I never weight the rope. Peer Pressure is a great climb and I'd love to come back in good shape and uninjured to lead it.
With that we are done for the trip. I've easily made quota with 20 pitches and 13 hours of driving. Everyone has to return to Ithaca to start classes. Silly students.