Rock Climbing --- 5/10/2009 - 5/14/2009 --- Seneca, Franklin
Sunday morning we depart Ithaca, and we reach Seneca Rocks around 4:30pm. Plenty of time to climb. We stride up the stairmaster and walk to the base of West Pole (5.7+). There is one easy pitch which leads to the first pitch of real climbing. I link the two (with a bunch of hesitation at the crux) and belay just under the roof. Guy comes up and leads the roof, then to the Old Man's rap tree. From here it is one single rope rappel, then a double rope rappel to the ground. Nice first day. We head to Seneca Shadows and get a site for two nights ($13/site/night).
Monday the weather looks nasty. This wasn't forecast. Oh well. We go to the Visitor's Center and see that the forecast for Tuesday and Wednesday is good. I also talk to the rangers and learn about some free camping available nearby. Guy and I climb Old Ladies (5.1) since we feel comfortable on that even if it starts to rain. The climb is four pitches, but we simul the whole thing to the South Summit (with an accidental detour to the false summit just south of the actual summit). By the time we are back on the ground, it has started raining and will continue for most of the rest of the day. We sit in the car out of the rain and watch Sex Drive (the unrated version as recommended by Keith), followed by a recent Daily Show and Wallace and Gromit - A Matter of Loaf and Death. Seneca Shadows won't refund our second night's fee, so we don't bother moving to the free camping area. I take advantage of the hot showers since I had brought a towel and flippie-floppies. Guy is not prepared since I neglected to tell him about the showers. He was left at Kinko's straight flipping copies. I'm so sorry! I should have told you!!!
Totally Epic Tuesday. Jason arrives early to join us. So it is a good thing we are still at Seneca Shadows since that's where he finds us (and the nearest cell reception is AT&T only three miles south on 28). We hike to the base of Green Wall (5.7) and prepare to climb. Guy leads the first pitch, Jason and I follow. Then I get the second pitch. I struggle and struggle up steep laybacks. Finally, afraid to commit to a hard left hand move, I lower back to the belay. Guy takes the lead back and quickly gets past where I was stuck. Then, just as quickly, gets off route on hard terrain. After much struggle, Guy is well above his gear and unable to downclimb. He pitches off for a 20' whipper. I am launched into the air right over Jason's head. This is the first hard fall I've ever caught on doubles. I notice that the blue rope sizzles through my hand until the red rope is able to take some of the force of the fall. I need a belay device with more friction. And gloves. Guy lowers back to the belay and I take the lead again. This time I make it to the top of the pitch and link the easy third pitch which takes us nearly to the South Summit. Guy leads a last pitch to the summit and the three of us enjoy the view for a bit before heading down the Traffic Jam rappel (which can be done in one double rope rappel).
After so much excitement and time spent on Green Wall, we head off for something more mellow. Ha! Not on Totally Epic Tuesday. Really, we try for mellow. We head to lower slabs for some toproping. I walk up to the top with a rope while Guy and Jason pick a climb on the bottom. Except there is no top. Just steep loose dirt and rocks. I'm kicking steps in dirt, slipping on pine needles and trying not to touch all the dead trees. Finally I find a healthy pine and decide to bail. A full 100' rappel (more like 110') puts me at the top of some chossy 5.4 that nobody wants to climb. I rappel off the top of that climb and am just thrilled to be back on semi-level ground. Sketchiest toprope day ever. Jason buys us all pizza while I regale everyone with harrowing tales of attempting to set a toprope.
After Jason heads home, Guy and I drive to our free campsite. From Seneca Rocks, take 33 West for 5.2 miles. Turn left on White's Run Road (33/3) and drive 0.5 miles to a pullout on the right. Nice camping area with a crick for water. Seems legal and nobody hassled us. We watch the first half of Mean Girls before calling it a night.
On Wednesday we drive to Franklin for some sport climbing. Walked up to Impact Zone and found Blood, Sweat and Chalk (5.9+). Ok, we were looking to start on Castaways, but we did realize that this nine bolt climb likely wasn't the four bolt Castaways. Anyhow, I led it, then Guy led it. Pumpy and fun. Then we did get on Castaways (5.8-) which we both led. After that Guy managed an impressive lead of Early Retirement (5.10a/b) which I followed on ratcheting toprope. After that we both led Jump Start (5.8). Then another bold lead by Guy: Edgecation (5.10c). I was happy to be able to follow this climb. We finished the day -- and made quota -- both leading Belly of the Whale (5.7+). Then back to Seneca and our free campsite where we watched the rest of Mean Girls.
Forecast is for afternoon thunderstorms on Thursday. We decide to try for one climb before the weather turns bad. We hike up to the East Face. This goes rather poorly as I miss the turnoff from Roy Gap Road and we spend an extra half hour bushwacking through steep slopes to reach the trail. And things go downhill from there. We reach Broadway ledge and head towards Dirty Old Man. But we decide instead to climb Soler. Guy starts up the first pitch and climbs about 10' before coming back to the ground. His heart just isn't in it today. And I'm in the mood for ice cream. So we hike out (just as the rain starts) and drive to a grocery store for cookies and cream and an eight hour drive back to Ithaca. Got home with just enough time to shower before heading over to play Monopoly with Emily, Jen, Lars and Raghu... who still owes me $6 for landing on Vermont Avenue. You have to pay, even if it is just $6, those are the rules!