Ice Climbing --- 3/4/2010 - 3/5/2010 --- Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks
Drove to the Dacks on Thursday afternoon. Did some actual winter camping at the trailhead. I much prefer
Tammy's house! Friday went something like this:
5:30am wake
6:15am start skiing on icy and rutted roads and trails
9:30am arrive at base of climb (eat lunch, rest, personal hygiene, change boots, etc.)
10:30am start climbing
2:30pm summit
4:00pm back on ground
6:15pm back to car
Pharaoh is a 500' 3 pitch, WI3. Guy led the first, crux pitch. And he stretched it a full 200' to a nice tree belay. I led pitch 2, which was mostly easy with a few vertical and near vertical bulges. I had the upgraded SPOT with a special button for emergencies when I need Guy to lead my pitch, but I didn't have to use it. We simuled a bit and took that pitch a full 220' to another nice tree. From here, Guy led the last pitch to the top. Five rope stretching rappels (trees on the left side of the route) got us to the base. The weather was beautiful, so we took our time (and took photos) during the climb. The hike out was miserable since the snow had softened and we were postholing down the talus slope and along horse trail until we reached the Pharaoh Lake outlet bridge where we had stashed our skis. Back at the car we ate a ton of food, then drove back to Ithaca. Getting back early was nice. Another bluebird day in Ithaca on Saturday. Went for a nice bike ride with Emily and then off to Kate and Tim's game night party.
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Guy getting ready to lead the first pitch. We carried some rock gear, though we never needed it. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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We both wore our Cyborgs. Guy has the older orange Cyborgs, mine are the new stainless model. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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The main flow had this huge horizontal crack about 40' up. So Guy led the left side. Which it turned out also had a huge crack about 40' up. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Guy leading the first pitch. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Placing a screw. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Placing a screw. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Near the big crack in p1. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Guy at the first belay. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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I'm getting ready to lead p2. Yes, I put my helmet back on to climb. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Duct tape on the screamers? Who does that? Maybe I read about it in a rockclimbing.com post. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Me leading p2. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Me leading p2. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Summit photo. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Getting ready to rappel. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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On the hike out, Guy getting pictures of Pharaoh. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Pharaoh from a distance. The climb is the obvious ice line near the center. Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |
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Pharaoh Mountain Ice Route! Pharaoh Mountain, Adirondacks -- 3/5/2010 |