Rock Climbing --- 5/22/2010 - 5/26/2010 --- Rumney
5/22 Bridget and I drive to Rumney. We meet everyone at Jimmy Cliff Left. I lead Teachers Pet (5.7+) and then The Beginning of All Things (5.10b with a hang at the end) to set a TR on Things as They Are Now (5.12a).
5/23 Warm up with a lead of Victim of Love (5.8) at upper Darth Vader. Then follow Three Easy Pieces (5.11a). Bridget leads Blustery Day (5.6) which I clean. I follow Squall (5.10d) which I could swear I led back when I first came to Rumney with Anna. jeffdeutsch.com doesn't mention it though.
Off to Jimmy Cliff Right where I lead The Nuthatch (5.7). Then I lead Hammond Organ (5.10d) and am happy to get the redpoint of this climb that I did on TR when last at Rumney. Finished the day following Lonesome Dove (5.10a), still one of the best climbs at Rumney. Back to Rattlesnake Mountain campground for a swim and campfire on the beach.
5/24 Start the day at Bonsai leading Kamikaze (5.8). Then lead Jugline (5.10b, one hang due to stupidly blowing the sequence). Climb Kamikaze again to clean it. And that's quota for the trip. I'm too hot to keep climbing, so I take pictures of Magoogs on Social Outcast. We finish the day at 5.8 Crag where I lead Mo Pump Sensation (5.8). Then lead three bolts up Only a Crow (5.10c) before deciding I'm done for the day and downclimbing back to the ground. Off to the river for a swim and cards... a much better choice.
5/25 Guy and Alex and their passengers have returned to Ithaca so it is just Magoogs, Bupes and me. We head to Main Cliff (lower left side, in the shade) where I lead Metamorphosis (5.8) a fun, long pitch. Then I lead Armed, Dangerous And Off My Medication (5.10b, two hangs) and finish my day with a lead of Anchovy Caper (5.8). Get some good pictures of Magoogs redpointing Cereal Killer (5.11c).
95F and 95% humidity is killing us. Too hot and tired for more climbing, we bail to Polar Caves -- one of the most touristy tourist attractions ever. I sit in the shade and read while Magoogs and Bupes play tourist. At night we play more cards and light another fire. Low on firewood, we end up with a pretty grassy fire which definitely smells odd.
5/26 Weather is still hot. Magoogs and I head to Monsters From the Id and Bupes joins us later. Magoogs leads Monster Crossing (5.10c) but can't figure out the final move, so he bails on to Abominable Snowman (5.11b). I follow Abominable Snowman to the last bolt, but can't make the big throw to the chains. Magoogs works Cosmic Monsters (5.12a) then I lead Little Demon (5.11c). I get to the last bolt onsight, but have to work the final move to the chains a half dozen times. By the time I finally make the move, I'm too tired to clip. A little A0 with my chalk bag cord finishes the climb. Zupes plays on Cosmic Monsters for a bit, then Magoogs gets the redpoint.
Magoogs and I head to The G-Spot. He leads Layback and Relax (5.10b) and I follow it. Either we are really tired or this climb is quite the sandbag. Magoogs barely gets the onsight and it takes everything I've got to clean the climb without hanging. We are done for the trip. Everyone takes a splash in the river before heading home.