Younger, Wiser Jeff and I drove to the Gunks early Friday morning. We jumped right on Ent's Line... because I'm addicted to that climb. One of the High Exposure guides was there, setting a TR on Ant's Line, so we got him to pull up our rope and set a TR on Ent's Line. While convenient, it didn't give us anything to climb as a warmup. Jeff and I both had a mediocre first go at the climb. I fell at least four times, including once at an easier section of the climb. No warmup + cold rock = fail. Then we each took a second go at it. This time we both got it clean. Finally! Almost exactly two years after my first shoulder surgery! Ent's Line! Pretty Awesome, Not a Send Yet! This is a climb that I was working before my shoulder injury, so getting it clean means I'm finally 110% healed.

After that we swung leads on Bonnie's Roof. I led the direct finish on the second pitch. It was airy and exciting as always. Then we walked down to the Uberfall and I led Bunny so we could TR Nosedive.

Amazing day, climbing in t-shirts in mid-November!

Saturday morning, Amy arrived before 8am having driven from Ithaca. Dedication to climbing, or not bothering to sleep after a 4:30am party? You be the judge. Amy and Jeff swung leads on Annie Oh while I enjoyed following the pitches. BTW, the very loose block on the second pitch is definitely not going to be up there much longer. Also, the piton on the first pitch of Three Doves has been replaced. Surprising because a cam works so well there. Next Jeff and I swung leads on Face To Face. I got the long, fun first pitch. Jeff got the exciting second pitch and linked the third pitch to the top. The traverse is airy and exposed, but not particularly hard. I'd say this is the easiest 5.9 in the Gunks. Just bring a #3 or #4 to protect yourself (and your second) on the traverse. By the time we got down, it was long after dark (and me with my headlamp in my pack!) so we sorted our gear and hoofed it back down the carriage road and on to Ithaca.