Rock Climbing --- 5/5/2012 - 5/6/2012 --- Gunks
Tammy and I drove down early early Saturday morning. We started the day with two climbs that were new to me: Tequila Mockingbird and Co-Op. Mike joined us as I was leading the first pitch of Tequila Mockingbird. The one that traverses. Back and forth. I tried to link it with the second pitch, and actually got to the point where I couldn't move. So I built an anchor and belayed Tammy up. Then I finished the second and third pitches to the top of the cliff. From there I belayed Mike for a 200' long climb up the entire cliff. He enjoyed that.
If anything, the traversing on Co-Op was even worse. Right, then 25' left, then 30' right. Que? The big hand traverse was fun. Tammy cleaned all the gear so Mike could attempt the "5.10a" direct variation which we must have mislocated, because he had to prussik past hard 5.12 moves. Then Mike led the second pitch and we both followed.
Done with new climbs we went to Ent's Line. Mike led Sleepwalk to set Ent's Line and we toproped it. I climbed it twice and got it clean both times. Finally feel like I have that climb wired. So good!
Done for the day Tammy and I went to the DEC where we ate dinner and retired early. I was sleeping in my bug bivy and enjoying the supermoon peeking out from a partially cloudy sky.
Sunday we set out for the far end of the Trapps. More new climbs! Casablanca, which is a moderate face climb to a broken ledge capped by a big creaky flake roof. Yikes! I went up and down half a dozen times before making the big reach to the good hold above the flake.
After that we went a bit further down the cliff to toprope Wegetables. This climb is one of the softest 10s at the Gunks and is very leadable. But the protection is thin for the first 30' of face climbing. Toproping is so much more fun. Also, it turned out there was a copperhead hanging out in the crack above the final roof. First time I've ever seen a copperhead actually on the cliff. Usually copperheads are on the ground and black snakes are on the rock. Anyhow, we all enjoyed toproping the climb.
After that, back to Ent's Line! Yeah, I'm obsessed with this climb. But Tammy, Mike and Beth are enablers. Tammy led Sleepwalk to set the toprope. I climbed Ent's Line twice in a row and came off once on the second lap. But I can definitely do two laps on the route. Probably three. Next time.
Comprehensively yours, Jefe.
P.S. Good luck with Twinkie this weekend.