Rock Climbing --- 6/15/2012 - 7/23/2012 --- United States
This album contains the full trip story and all the photos. Check the highlights album for a summary of the trip.
6/15
Mike and Beth arrive in Ithaca. We sort and merge gear. We create a super
rack which should be sufficient for every climb we plan to do the entire summer.
6/16
We tetris our gear into the very full car and drive to the New River Gorge.
Meet up with Guy, Katie and Ross. Hang out for the evening and get a very
tilted night sleeping on sand by the river.
6/17
Intermittent rain hinders our day. We head to Butcher's Branch at Kaymoor.
I lead Play It By Ear (5.10a)
but am stymied by the final move. Climbing it a second time on toprope, I
get the sequence which turns out to be pretty easy and straightforward. Doh!
After that I toprope The Green Piece (5.10b) and then lead Flight
Of The Gumbie (5.9).
We head out for a quick swim in the river. Guy, Katie and Ross all have to depart. People with lives other than climbing? Weird!
6/18
Thunderstorms all night. Rain in the morning. Mike and Beth learn that their
tent leaks. We head to the local gear shop to browse while the rock dries.
After sufficient time, we head to Kaymoor Slabs (which is supposed to dry
rapidly after rain). Arriving just in time for another rain shower, we
give up. We get in the car and drive through the night to Wyoming.
6/19
Marissa has helpfully gone to my house and packaged the backup tent for
Mike and Beth. It arrives in Cheyenne the same time we do. Though tracking
it down requires much effort on our part. The postal employees are very
courteous and helpful, just not very good at actually sorting mail. The
tent is finally located in some random bin in the back of one of the local
post offices.
We arrive at the Big Sandy trailhead at 1am. That is about 32 hours after leaving West Virginia.
6/20
Rest day at the trailhead. We sleep late, acclimatize, organize gear and
bathe.
6/21
Solstice! The long days are helpful for long climbs. I have hardly used
my headlamp the entire trip.
We hike about seven miles to Sundance Pinnacle above Big Sandy Lake. At 9850', this is Mike's lifetime high point. We set camp in an open meadow and I go off to scout the approach to Sundance.
6/22
5:30am wake to climb the East Face of Sundance Pinnacle (5.9). Mike leads
the first two pitches and I lead the second two. The climbing is surprisingly
good. We are on the summit around 10:30am. At 11,054' this is Mike's lifetime
high point.
We finish early enough to head to the cirque. Pack our gear and hike over Jackass Pass into the Cirque of the Towers. There is lots of snow on the ground and it is hard to find a place to camp. Finally we find a lovely spot with trees for shade and shelter, a good water source, and reasonably level ground. Woot!
6/23
Rest day. Rinse clothes. Play cards. Build a bridge over the creek. We
scout the approach to the NE Face of Pingora. The key to the approach is
staying low. Follow the cirque drainage to Lonesome Lake, skirt the shore
of the lake, then head up to Pingora. We get too high on the approach and
it takes 2.5 hours of boulder hopping. Returning to camp nice and low takes
us only 40 minutes.
6/24
5:30am wake for the South Buttress of Pingora (5.8). I had done this climb
the last time I was here and I really love it. I get to lead every pitch.
We set a nice leisurely pace and take plenty of pictures. We reach
the summit (11,884' and Mike's lifetime high point) early and hang out
enjoying the spectacular view. An excellent day!
Walking back to camp we see one other party camped a half mile from us, the only other climbers we see in the cirque.
Me: I hope they aren't taking a rest day tomorrow too. Mike: Why? Me: Because we will have to get up super early to beat them to it. Mike: I don't think it works that way. Me: I'm pretty sure it does.
6/25
Ominous weather convinces Mike and I that our rest day in anticipation of
climbing the NE Face of Pingora is a good choice. We play lots of cards,
challenge ourselves
with the climber game, and read our books. High winds and evening
thunderstorms encourage plenty of rest time. The mild thunderstorm
turns somewhat scary when we get a strike about 1/4 mile from camp.
6/26
Awake at 4:30am for the Northeast Face of Pingora (5.8). This long route
has been one of my goals since I saw it on my first trip to the cirque.
Finally getting on it!
We are climbing before 6am. Mike and I start swinging leads, but after the first few pitches we settle on me leading everything and Mike carrying the two packs. We are both happier with that solution. It is a bluebird day but very windy. Never once getting off route, we break some pitches at odd points, and link others. In the end, I think we did the whole thing in 12 pitches, reaching the summit around 3pm and getting back to camp around 6pm.
I'll admit that we skipped the 5.8 offwidth bit (and the 5.9 lieback alternative) in favor of some harder but more straightforward thin crack climbing. I have to aid the crack where it gets really thin and dirty, but otherwise it goes free at 5.9+ or so. Advantages of not climbing the offwidth include not having to drag packs through the offwidth, getting a booty nut and biner off the thin crack... and not having to climb the offwidth :)
Our rack was a set of nuts, green C3, green alien, yellow alien, red alien (2), .5, .75, 1 (2), 2 (2), 3, 4. I was pretty happy with that rack. We could have done without the two smallest cams. The #4 isn't truly necessary, but we were able to place it on almost every pitch. And it provides some protection on the final chimney, which is basically a 5.6 free solo. I don't understand topos which recommend a single set of nuts and cams for this climb. The pitches are long and all of the anchors are gear anchors. Our rack was heavy, but I wouldn't want to do the climb with anything less.
6/27
We pack camp and hike seven miles to Deep Lake. No mosquitos here! As we
arrive at Deep Lake a huge wall of smoke moves in to cover the cirque and
then steadily moves toward us until we are encased in a thick haze.
6/28
Still surrounded by smoke, we decide to hike out. We are a bit concerned
about the remote chance that the fire is near the trailhead and will cause
us problems on the hike out. We blast the hike from Deep Lake eight or nine
miles to the trailhead in well under four hours.
Driving to Pinedale, we learn that the fire is a good 50 miles west of where we were. So it wasn't really a concern. All of Pinedale is coated in the same thick haze which blots out the sky. We settle in at a mediocre and expensive private campground and head to a Mexican restaurant to eat massive quantities of food.
6/29
Driving all day across the vacant desert of Nevada. We camp in Bishop at
Pleasant Valley, but the fisherman's Pleasant Valley, not the climber's Pleasant
Valley Pit (which may or may not be open in the summer, I'm not sure).
6/30
Awake early and off to the National Forest office to get a permit for
Charlotte Dome. We get the permit no problem and at no cost! We drive
to the trailhead where we find plenty of bear boxes (a big contrast from
my last visit to this trailhead). The stars are aligned for us!
By noon we are hiking. The trail gains 2600' in the first five miles to reach Kearsarge pass at 11,810'. Pretty brutal. After that we do another five miles down and up and down... we finish the day at a nice camping spot around 10,000'.
7/1
We move camp a few miles to a gorgeous spot on the eastern bench of Charlotte
Dome. This spot is about 700' above the start of our climb. Mike and I scout
the approach which is straightforward from here. I prefer a rest day
prior to big climbs. Moving camp and scouting
the approach gives us about five hours of hiking for the day. Not much of
a rest day. Oh well.
7/2
Awake at 4:15am for Charlotte Dome (5.8). We are climbing before 6am. Mike
takes the first block, leading p1 to p4. I take the second block all the way
to the summit at the top of p12. I get off route once near the top. Or not
really off route as I read the topo, just missed the one decent belay. So
I end up climbing p9-p11 in just two rope stretching pitches. The struggle
is to get a belay in the middle of the furrows which hardly takes any gear
at all. I don't recommend this option!
The three of us reach the summit before 5pm and a leisurely walkoff gets us back to camp by 6pm... plenty of time to play a few hands of pitch. We have beautiful weather all day long and no bugs. The whole climb is amazing, especially p6 "The Slot" and p8 "The Awkward Crack." Our rack is a set of nuts, red alien, .75 (2), 1 (2), 2 (2), 3. Mike and I agree that we would have liked to have a .5 and yellow alien as well. The whole climb takes nuts and all of the belays take a ton of gear... if you can find the belay :)
Me: I'd like a giant Clif bar shaped to fit perfectly in a bear canister. That would be very space efficient. Mike: I'd rather have a bear canister filled with M&Ms. Me: But there would be lots of wasted space. Mike: Fill it with chocolate syrup. Me: You have a point.
7/3
Eight+ hours of hiking. About 13 miles from Charlotte Dome all the way
back to the car.
Arrived at the trailhead around 6pm. Very tired! Ate one of Mike's freeze
dried meals. Turns out the two servings I ate had a total of 254% of my
RDA of fiber. No kidding.
We camp at the bottom of the road and enjoy a warm night and a full moon.
7/4
Independence day in Independence, California. Really. We do some swimming
and wash our clothes. We head to Bishop. I'd like to see Galen Rowell's
Mountain Light Gallery, but it is closed for the holiday. Mike and I get
on the Iron
Man Traverse (V4). We don't quite send the problem, but we make good progress.
I'm sure if the temperature wasn't 102F we would have sent. I'd love to spend
a month bouldering here and getting super strong... but not in the middle of
the summer.
We stock up on groceries and drive to the eastern edge of Yosemite.
7/5
3am wake! The earliest of the entire trip. Just to get in line at Camp 4 :(
We have to drive about 2 hours from the Mono Lake area to the Valley. There we are first in line for a spot at Camp 4. But only barely first in line as the line quickly builds behind us. We have time for many hands of cards waiting for Pinky to open the ranger booth.
After getting our site we sort our food into bear boxes and sort our climbing gear into packs. We enjoy a shower at Curry Village... something I'll take advantage of every day in the valley.
7/6
We head to Church Bowl for a day of single pitch climbing. Mike leads
Uncle Fanny (5.7); I lead Church Bowl Lieback (5.8); next I lead Pole
Position (5.10a) a slab climb with 6 bolts and no other gear in 130' of
climbing! I lead it on doubles so we can get down after Mike and Beth
follow the pitch. We finish the day with my lead of Bishop's Terrace (5.8)
a spectacular 200' rope stretcher of a pitch.
7/7
We climb Nutcracker (5.8) and the first pitch of After Seven (5.8). I'm
happy to lead all the pitches, especially since Ryan got all the good pitches
the last time I climbed Nutcracker. I have no idea how the mantle move can
be considered the crux of Nutcracker. Virtually every move on the first pitch
is harder than that one easy mantle.
7/8
Rest morning. I head to Yosemite Lodge for wifi. And Curry Village for a
shower. We head to The Grack (5.6) in the afternoon and our timing is
perfect. We arrive just as it goes into the shade. Mike leads all of
The Grack and we toprope the slabby first pitch of Marginal (5.9) on the
way down.
After about 100 hands of pitch, we start playing Schafskopf. Now we can go back and forth between the two games (with an occasional rummey detour) to keep the card games interesting.
7/9
It is hot in the valley and getting hotter. We play tourist all day and
make plans to head to Tuolumne. As temperatures cool in the evening, Mike
and I boulder a bit. We are handily shut down by all the random
problems we find in the boulders surrounding Camp 4.
7/10
We leave the valley and get a site at Tuolumne Meadows. After setting up
camp, we head to Pothole Dome for some toproping. We climb a few different
variations of TR #5 and TR #2 which are both around 5.9+ for one move and
low angle slab for the rest of the pitch. We finish the day setting a
toprope on Potluck (5.11) which is a short, hard, overhung hand crack.
Mike and I get about one move from the top, but neither of us can finish
the climb.
7/11
We head to Stately Pleasure Dome where we climb Hermaphrodite to Boltline.
I lead the approach pitch of Hermaphrodite (5.4) and Mike leads the two
fun pitches, getting us to the top of the giant flake. Then I lead the
exciting 5.10b variation of Boltline. Just eight bolts in 160' of climbing.
Unfortunately, the bolted anchor SuperTopo shows at the top of Boltline
does not exist. This is confirmed by a guide on the climb next to us.
We don't have shoes, so walking off is not enticing. I have no trad gear,
so I have to lower back to the belay by untying and pulling my rope from
all the bolts more than 100' above the belay. I get the trad rack and
reclimb the pitch placing gear in the 5.8 standard variation. Then I
downclimb the entire pitch cleaning gear from both lines as I go. Moderately
epic. Once we are all back to the top of Hermaphrodite, it is two double
rope rappels back to the base of the dome.
7/12
Wake at 5:30am for Cathedral Peak. We hike quickly and are climbing before
8am. We are the first of at least eight parties who will climb the route
today. Being first is nice :)
Mike leads p1 to p3. I lead p4 and p5, breaking p5 into two pitches so I can do the 5.9 finger crack variation and belay right above the crack. We are on the summit well before noon. Plenty of time to climb Eichorn's Pinnacle!
After a bit of struggling with the 5.9 overhanging offwidth on the east side of Eichorn's, I got on the correct side of the pinnacle and climbed the 5.4 route I had intended. Oops. I brought Beth up while Mike stayed near the top of Cathedral to take pictures. Then I rappelled and walked back to the top of Cathedral so I could take pictures while Beth belayed Mike to the top. Very dramatic location! We took over 130 photos.
7/13
Lazy morning. We pack camp and head to the Western Front of Daff Dome.
Beth sets up her hammock while Mike and I toprope Green Eggs and Ham (5.9),
March of Dimes (5.10a), New Tricks For Old Dogs (5.10b), and Touch of Grey
(5.9). All pure slab climbs which felt about the same in difficulty. Not a bad
day, but the climbing was monotonous.
Leaving Yosemite, we head to the Mobil station in Lee Vining for dinner. After that we start driving back east. We spent the night at a great, legal free camping spot... in Winnemucca, NV take exit 176 to Hansen Road and follow that to Water Canyon Road. Drive south to BLM land.
7/14
Drive to Vedauwoo.
7/15
We head to Reynolds Hill. I start the day by leading Climb and Punishment
(5.9+) which is a really good introduction to Vedauwoo climbing. We toprope
Penis Dimension (5.10c) right next to Climb and Punishment. Both really good.
We have poor weather all day with lots of wind and intermittent thunderstorms.
As the weather worsens, we bail on plans to climb Pooh Corner and Maiden.
Vedauwoo is another place I could come back to for a month or two of climbing.
Maybe finally get good at offwidths!
7/16
We drive to the Crestone Needle trailhead. Huge thunderstorms barrel out
of the mountains and over the valley.
7/17
Forecast is not good. We bail on plans to climb Ellingwood Ledges. Drive
north to Boulder. Spend some time at the Pearl Street Mall and Chautauqua
Park. We meet up with Tom and Beth at the Boulder Rock Club and climb
indoors for a bit. Pulling on plastic! Wooo? After helping Tom and Beth
with their community garden plot (and earning some chard and zucchini) I
head over to Emily and Brian's new apartment for my first night sleeping
indoors in over a month.
7/18
Hike with Tom around the mesa west of town. Then off to the library for
a bit. We have dinner and frozen yogurt with Amy and Charles. Mike, how
many pounds of frozen yogurt did you eat exactly? Your lifetime high point
of eating?
7/19
Up at 5am to climb Rewritten in Eldorado Canyon. Tom joins us and we climb
in two parties of two. Tom and I climb together with him leading p2 and
me taking the other four pitches. The intent of our early start is to do
the climb while it is in the shade and before temperatures hit triple
digits. We are fairly successful, only getting a bit of sun on the
final pitch.
We finish early enough to head to the Indian Buffet for lunch. Too much food! I gorge myself and then eat several extra bowls of mango custard. I wish I could say this was my lifetime high point of eating, but I've gorged myself like this far too many times to keep track. I swear I won't eat again until Saturday!
We head to the library to relax. The main Boulder library is having a free reception for an art festival that is going on throughout the city. Free stuffed mushrooms and minicupcakes and cold drinks and.... Ok, now I'm really really stuffed. I swear I won't eat again until Sunday! Or even Monday!
7/20
We head to Estes Park where Mike and Beth ride horses. I read my book and
relax in my old free campsite outside of Meeker Park. Still lovely. Then
we tour Estes Park. I spend hours taking photographs of the hummingbirds.
Hard to do, even at my camera's fastest shutter speed.
7/21
Spend the morning at the Boulder farmer's market. It is larger than Ithaca's
market and more oriented toward food instead of being 50% arts and crafts.
After that we head to Tom's house for an afternoon gathering of a bunch of his friends. Swimming in the heavily chlorinated pool gets me finally feeling 100% clean for the first time this whole trip.
As the party ends, so does our trip. We start driving back to Ithaca.
7/22
Driving all day. We meet Guy in Pennsylvania. He is headed back to Columbus
after spending the weekend in Ithaca for Grassroots.
7/23
Around 4am we reach home!
Stats for the trip: