Rock Climbing --- 3/16/2013 - 4/3/2013 --- Red River Gorge

Spring Break in Kentucky!!! I didn't take all that many pictures, especially considering it was a 19 day trip. I've got my photos and a smattering of photos from other folks.

Saturday 3/16
Drive to Kentucky.

Sunday 3/17
Chica bonita. Rain. Cold. Mary Pop-Parazzi (5.5, but feels like 5.8 in the cold). Raindancer (5.10a). Bunch of other climbs that I didn't record. Started raining at the end of the day and I managed to break five holds (two the size of my face) cleaning Darling Dirtbag (5.8). Not fun. We ate Cheesy Grits for dinner and chocolate fondue for dessert. Quality!

Monday 3/18
Josh stole my guidebook and fairshare lid. Hey Josh, not everything with a "J" on it belongs to you! :)

Heavy rain and thunderstorms all day. Attempted Dip Wall but couldn't get there with the road crossing all flooded. Ended up at Military for gear placement and anchor cleaning lessons. Burritos for dinner and No-Bake for dessert.

Tuesday 3/19
Muir valley. Bruise brothers. Nice but crowded. We climbed everything you would expect on the upper tier. Then off to Plate Tectonics. Totally in shade. I got very cold hands leading Plate Techtonics. Moroccan couscous (with quinoa instead) for dinner. Cookies for dessert. It gets down to 14F tonight. Atypically cold for Kentucky this time of year. Brrrr!!!

Wednesday 3/20
Fortress. Bedtime for Bonzo (5.7) with Steve and Ian. The only climb on the entire wall in the shade. Doh! Climbed Blue Runner (5.9-) to clean a stuck nut. We had ropes on Calypso III and Serpent (which I can still climb cleanly!) and a few other climbs. Set a photo line which was pretty popular. Tofu Korma for dinner. Magic tricks... sorry... illusions for post-dinner entertainment, and No-Bake for dessert.

Thursday 3/21
Bruise Brothers again. Snow and cold, but everyone climbed well. We finished off the upper tier. Miguel's for dinner.

Friday 3/22
Students in charge. Watch out! :)

Off to Solar Collector/Gold Coast. New area for me, I've never wanted to drive the roads to that part of PMRP. Lots of falling ice. Reasonably warm in the sun. Started at the far left in the sun. Some new 5.9 left of the climbs in v3 of the guidebook. Also Super Pinch (5.10d) and Green Horn (5.11a). Then to the far right. 7-11 (5.7) and On the Prowl (5.10a). And two trad climbs: The Perfect Pint and Chester Fried Chicken (both 5.4) right next to Rebar (5.11a) and Broken Chicken Wing (5.9+) which both look really cool! Awesome Chili for dinner and smores for dessert. I think I ate better during this class than on any COE class in history. For real.

Saturday 3/23
My tent pole broke in the middle of the night. Ugh. In the morning I traded poles with Andrew without his knowledge (kidding! we had the same model CE tent and he was headed home). Students leave. Josh stays. Guy and Cat drive down. I get my one hot shower at Lago Linda. The 40 gallon water heater can't keep up with the demands of the entire campground. She is expanding the shower rooms. Hopefully adding more water capacity too.

Josh, Guy, Cat and I head to Drive By. Cat and I lead Slick and the 9mm (5.10b) which is pretty fun. I follow Josh's lead of Breakfast Burrito (5.10d) and Fire and Brimstone (5.10d) which is stellar. The crux sequence of FaB is pretty tricky compression moves off odd holds. I really enjoyed working it out. On toprope :) Cat and I finished our day leading Make a Wish (5.10b). We are joined by Amy and Amanda who climb everything at the crag in a few hours. Josh onsights Whip Stocking (5.11a) and gets Spirit Fingers (5.11c) without much trouble. We watch a girl who appears to be nine years old climbing one of the 13s at the right side of the crag. This sport belongs to pre-teens these days. A bunch of them finally figured out that they have the power/weight ratio and tiny fingers needed to crush climbs that most adults find impossible.

In the evening we meet Katie, Adam and Taylor at Miguel's for dinner, then head to Lago Linda where we meet Zupes and eat pie!

Sunday 3/24
Left Flank. Cold and rainy. We climb To Defy the Laws of Tradition (5.10a). That climb is still really hard, especially with cold hands. I led and toproped it, neither time cleanly. Guy stick clipped up Too Many Puppies (5.12b) which was REALLY hard but gave everyone something to do. We finished the day on Moonlight (5.9+) at Military. Still hard too :)

Guy and Cat head home. Zupes and I go to the cabin with the Maryland crew. So nice. So nice. Pouring rain and lightning all night. Being inside is soooooo nice! We watch Walking Dead.

Monday 3/25
Snow and wind. Rest day. Mike and I go grocery shopping and find almonds for $1/lb at Kroger. Card games in the evening.

Tuesday 3/26
More snow. Screw climbing. Another rest day. We play lots of card games and watch Big Bang Theory.

Wednesday 3/27
Tolerable weather. Bruise Brothers... yet again. I lead Get Off The Radio Jeff (5.9+) mostly because of the name. Also lead Little Viper (5.10b) and Hey There Fancy Pants (5.10c). Finish the day leading Jungle Trundler (5.11a) and leading it a second time to get the redpoint. We head to Miguel's for dinner. They lose one of our pizzas and another customer's pizza. Operations there are pretty poorly managed.

Thursday 3/28
Global Village. Better weather. We start on Kentucky Pinstripe (5.10a) which has a scary clip on the second bolt with a potential fall into a tree (I grab the draw... it is much less scary that way). I climb Vision (5.7) and take some pictures. I follow Taylor's chilly lead of Father and Son (5.7) then follow Adam's stellar lead of Out for Justice (5.11b) a really fun climb. We finish the day at The Zoo where Adam climbs most of Hippocrite (5.12a) and stick clips the rest. I have a complete flailfest on this climb. It isn't pretty.

Friday 3/29
Long Wall. Katie and I climb some 5.9 trad line with no anchors which we dub Wobbles. Adam and Mike climb Boom Boom Out Go The Lights (5.10b). We have to traverse to their anchor to get down, which is only slightly epic and unprotected. Boom Boom is a fun climb too. Next we head to Rock Wars which Adam leads handily. We are all tired and head back to the cabin early in the afternoon. Guy and Cat arrive in the evening.

Saturday 3/30
Left Flank. I'm le tired and happy to just follow climbs all day today. Which really makes for a fun day! I climb Brother Stair (5.9) Maypop (5.11a) Fast Food Christians (5.10a) with a stupid hard start and 5.6 climbing after. Adam, Katie and Taylor leave for Maryland. Guy, Cat, Zupes and I head to Military where we climb Sunshine (5.9+) and In the Light (5.10c).

In the evening we hang out at the Red River Reunion at Miguel's. We get to talk to Russ Clune and Whitney Boland for a long time, which is pretty cool. I'm not awkward with the pro climbers this time. Go me!

Sunday 3/31
Rain all day. Guy and Cat leave. Zupes and I play rummy, ticket to ride, settlers of catan and cribbage. And I take a hot shower. Single token, though I had some spares if it turned out I needed more than four minutes to get clean.

Monday 4/1
Oh god. April Fool's day and I'm stuck with Zupes. Heaven help me! :) :) :)

Amy joins us for a day of climbing, and I've got my lead game on. Plate Techtonics (5.10a) and Gettin Lucky In Kentucky (5.10b) both get a redpoint. Then I onsight Fifth Bolt Faith (5.10c) which feels really good. I finish the send train with a redpoint of 59" DrillBitch (5.10a). I lead Bethel and Spinner (both 5.10a) and have to hang once on each... starting to get tired. We finish the day with Burning Bush (5.11a) which I actually onsighted back when I was strong. Amy (who has redpointed ten 5.10 climbs already today) can't finish Burning Bush. I climb to the crux but can't even pull on the overhung crimpers. Sticky gets me to the chains so I can clean the route. The final failure doesn't bother me. It is a good day for sure.

Tuesday 4/2
Cold is returning. We climb in the sun at The Gallery. We start with the classics 27 Years of Climbing (5.8) and A Brief History of Climb (5.10c). I climb Johnny B. Good (5.11a) twice on toprope to work the sequence for an eventual redpoint. I've done the climb a few times in years past, but never remember the sequence, and I'm not strong enough to hang out and work the moves on lead. We finish the trip with The King Lives On (5.10b). Zupes and I pack our gear and drive to Columbus where we spend the night with Guy and Cat.

Wednesday 4/3
Home again, home again, jiggity jig.

My rack for the trip. Sport climbing! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

My rack for the trip. Sport climbing!    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/16/2013

Andrew tightening the slackline. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Andrew tightening the slackline. (Maddie's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/20/2013

Laura belayed by Sam... oops... Ian. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Laura belayed by Sam... oops... Ian. (Seth's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/20/2013

Ying-ying (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Ying-ying (Seth's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/20/2013

Laura (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Laura (Seth's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/20/2013

Laura (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Laura (Seth's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/20/2013

Seth (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Seth (Seth's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/20/2013

Daniel (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Daniel (Seth's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/20/2013

Maddie (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Maddie (Seth's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/20/2013

The whole class at Miguel's. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

The whole class at Miguel's. Seth, Wesley, Laura, Josh, Ian, Andrew, Daniel, Shay, Ying-Ying, Maddie, Me, Steve, Fiona (Seth's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/21/2013

Shay and I need a pair of Phil's belay glasses. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Shay and I need a pair of Phil's belay glasses. (Seth's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/22/2013

Everyone's hands at the end of class. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Everyone's hands at the end of class. (Seth's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/22/2013

Fiona (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Fiona (Ying-Ying's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/22/2013

Big cam! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Big cam! (Ying-Ying's photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/22/2013

Josh leading Fire and Brimstone. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Josh leading Fire and Brimstone.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Josh leading Fire and Brimstone. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Josh leading Fire and Brimstone.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Josh at the top of Breakfast Burrito. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Josh at the top of Breakfast Burrito.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Guy leading Breakfast Burrito. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Guy leading Breakfast Burrito.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Guy leading Breakfast Burrito. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Guy leading Breakfast Burrito.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Guy leading Breakfast Burrito. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Guy leading Breakfast Burrito.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Guy leading Breakfast Burrito. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Guy leading Breakfast Burrito.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Guy leading Breakfast Burrito. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Guy leading Breakfast Burrito.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Amy leading Make a Wish. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy leading Make a Wish.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Amy leading Make a Wish. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy leading Make a Wish.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Amy leading Make a Wish. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy leading Make a Wish.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Amy leading Make a Wish. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy leading Make a Wish.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Amanda milking the no-hands rest on Make a Wish. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amanda milking the no-hands rest on Make a Wish.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Josh leading Spirit Fingers. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Josh leading Spirit Fingers.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Josh leading Spirit Fingers. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Josh leading Spirit Fingers.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Josh taking a short fall on Spirit Fingers. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Josh taking a short fall on Spirit Fingers.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Thuze (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Thuze    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Me leading To Defy The Laws Of Tradition. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading To Defy The Laws Of Tradition.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/24/2013

Me leading To Defy The Laws Of Tradition. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading To Defy The Laws Of Tradition.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/24/2013

Me leading To Defy The Laws Of Tradition. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading To Defy The Laws Of Tradition.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/24/2013

Me leading To Defy The Laws Of Tradition. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading To Defy The Laws Of Tradition.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/24/2013

Me leading To Defy The Laws Of Tradition. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading To Defy The Laws Of Tradition.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/24/2013

Everyone hanging out in the rain shadow of the big roof. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Everyone hanging out in the rain shadow of the big roof.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/24/2013

Me finally reaching the top of To Defy. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me finally reaching the top of To Defy. I removed all the shots of me hanging at every bolt. I get to do that because it is my website.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/24/2013

The one free move I managed to pull on Too Many Puppies. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

The one free move I managed to pull on Too Many Puppies.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/24/2013

Zupes and puppy. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Zupes and puppy.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/24/2013

Ahhhhhhh!!!!! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Ahhhhhhh!!!!!    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/25/2013

It snowed for about 48 hours continuously. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

It snowed for about 48 hours continuously.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/25/2013

More than just flurries. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

More than just flurries.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/25/2013

Poor Sticky :( (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Poor Sticky :(    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/25/2013

Roughing it. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Roughing it.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/25/2013

Angua! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua!    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/25/2013

Katie on Little Viper. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Katie on Little Viper.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/27/2013

Katie on Little Viper. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Katie on Little Viper.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/27/2013

Katie on Little Viper. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Katie on Little Viper.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/27/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua posing for her calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Adam up high on Kentucky Pinstripe. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Adam up high on Kentucky Pinstripe.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua again. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua again.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Angua again. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Angua again.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Katie on Kentucky Pinstripe. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Katie on Kentucky Pinstripe.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Katie on Kentucky Pinstripe. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Katie on Kentucky Pinstripe.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Katie on Kentucky Pinstripe. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Katie on Kentucky Pinstripe.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Katie on Kentucky Pinstripe. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Katie on Kentucky Pinstripe.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Taylor posing for his calendar cover portrait.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Katie on Brother Stair. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Katie on Brother Stair.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/30/2013

Katie on Brother Stair. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Katie on Brother Stair.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/30/2013

Guy working Wild Yet Tasty. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Guy working Wild Yet Tasty.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/30/2013

Guy working Wild Yet Tasty. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Guy working Wild Yet Tasty.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/30/2013

Amy on Gettin Lucky In Kentucky. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy on Gettin Lucky In Kentucky.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

Amy on Gettin Lucky In Kentucky. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy on Gettin Lucky In Kentucky.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

Amy (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

Amy at the top of Burning Bush. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy at the top of Burning Bush.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

Amy at the top of Burning Bush. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy at the top of Burning Bush.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

I climbed the start of Burning Bush. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

I climbed the start of Burning Bush.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

I climbed the start of Burning Bush. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

I climbed the start of Burning Bush.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

I climbed the start of Burning Bush. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

I climbed the start of Burning Bush.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

And then gave up... (Category:  Rock Climbing)

And then gave up...    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

...and brought up Sticky (Category:  Rock Climbing)

...and brought up Sticky (who was held together with duct tape for the entire second half of the trip).    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

The only way I can lead this climb right now. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

The only way I can lead this climb right now.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/1/2013

Zupes leading 27 Years of Climbing. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Zupes leading 27 Years of Climbing.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Amy's COE marketing shot. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy's COE marketing shot.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Zupes leading 27 Years of Climbing. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Zupes leading 27 Years of Climbing.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Zupes leading 27 Years of Climbing. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Zupes leading 27 Years of Climbing.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Amy leading A Brief History of Climb. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy leading A Brief History of Climb.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Me leading A Brief History of Climb. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading A Brief History of Climb.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Me leading A Brief History of Climb. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading A Brief History of Climb.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Me leading A Brief History of Climb. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading A Brief History of Climb.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Me leading A Brief History of Climb. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading A Brief History of Climb.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Me leading A Brief History of Climb. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading A Brief History of Climb.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Me leading A Brief History of Climb. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading A Brief History of Climb.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Me leading A Brief History of Climb. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading A Brief History of Climb.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Me leading A Brief History of Climb. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading A Brief History of Climb.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Amy on Johnny B Good. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy on Johnny B Good.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

My Johnny B Good micro beta.  Gonna redpoint this the next time I get on it! :) (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Stop Judging Me!

My Johnny B Good micro beta. Gonna redpoint this the next time I get on it! :)
1: Undercling left, clip the bolt.
2: Move up to the good rail.
3: Move left on the good rail.
4: Left hand up to the next bomber rail. Don't clip from here.
5: Right hand up to the good hold.
6: Left hand up and across to the bomber pocket. Clip the bolt.
7: Slap right high on the arete. Heel hook the arete too if necessary.
8: Left hand up to the good slot.
9: Right hand cross to the next good slot.
10: Left hand on good holds. Clip the chains!    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Amy approaching the crux of Johnny B Good. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy approaching the crux of Johnny B Good. I wonder if she will use my micro beta?    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

So far so good. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

So far so good.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Nice! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Nice!    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Up to the second rail. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Up to the second rail.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Kudos to Mike for getting these awesome shots! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Kudos to Mike for getting these awesome shots!    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Kudos to Mike for getting these awesome shots! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Kudos to Mike for getting these awesome shots!    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Not to kill the suspense or anything, but Amy is going to send this climb. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Not to kill the suspense or anything, but Amy is going to send this climb.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Our beta diverges a bit. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Our beta diverges a bit.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Our beta diverges a bit. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Our beta diverges a bit.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

I find the first horizontal slot near the final bolt to be very small. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

I find the first horizontal slot near the final bolt to be very small.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

So I skip it. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

So I skip it.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Clipping the chains. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Clipping the chains.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

This girl was climbing just right of us while I was cleaning Johnny B Good. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

This girl was climbing just right of us while I was cleaning Johnny B Good.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Unfortunately, the best angle and lighting was when she was lower, but I didn't have my camera ready. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Unfortunately, the best angle and lighting was when she was lower, but I didn't have my camera ready.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Amy leading The King Lives On. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy leading The King Lives On.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Amy leading The King Lives On. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Amy leading The King Lives On.    Red River Gorge, KY -- 4/2/2013

Cat, Josh, Guy, Me and Zupes at Lago Linda. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Cat, Josh, Guy, Me and Zupes at Lago Linda. (Cat's Photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/23/2013

Zupes, Adam, Katie, Guy, Me, Taylor and Cat at Military/Left Flank. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Zupes, Adam, Katie, Guy, Me, Taylor and Cat at Military/Left Flank. (Cat's Photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/24/2013

This fox showed up while we were climbing. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

This fox showed up while we were climbing. (Katie's Photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/27/2013

This fox showed up while we were climbing. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

This fox showed up while we were climbing. (Katie's Photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/27/2013

Me taking pictures above Kentucky Pinstripe. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me taking pictures above Kentucky Pinstripe. (Katie's Photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Adam at his high point on Hippocrite. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Adam at his high point on Hippocrite. (Katie's Photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Sticky helps with stream crossings! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Sticky helps with stream crossings! (Katie's Photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Go Sticky! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Go Sticky! (Katie's Photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/28/2013

Me after the traverse to get off Wobbles. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me after the traverse to get off Wobbles. (Katie's Photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/29/2013

Adam leading Rock Wars. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Adam leading Rock Wars. (Katie's Photo)    Red River Gorge, KY -- 3/29/2013