Rock Climbing --- 6/23/2013 - 7/1/2013 --- Rumney
I'll See You In Hell, Horse Coon!!!!
6/23
Yamin and I drive to Rumney and meet Anna. I'm so proud of myself for buying
one week parking passes online ($5 + a $1.95 convenience fee, which isn't
remotely convenient for me) for Anna and I, so we don't have to buy day passes
($3 per day). The online pass option is new. As is the fact that the
Common Cafe on Buffalo road now sells one week passes. Fuck my efficiency.
It rains most of the night.
Don't you mean Coon Horse?
6/24
We head to Main Wall because large sections stay dry in the rain.
Climb Metamorphosis (5.8),
Clusterphobia (5.10d),
Scene of the Crime (5.10a), and
Sesame Street (5.10c, soft 5.9 except for the final move).
Then it starts to rain. And thunder.
We play Carcassonne in Anna's truck.
The rain stops. We are joined by Joe and head to the 5.8 Wall. I lead
Milktoast (5.10d) twice. In a light drizzle. But it is mostly staying
dry. Mostly. Done for the day after that, we go for a swim and cook dinner.
So it should be, "I'll see you in Hell, Coon Horse?"
6/25
Pulse Wall where we warm up on Little Angler (5.8). It is an awkward
and kinda shitty climb. Don't bother.
Then we head to Kennel Wall. We get on Fucking the Dog (5.11a) which is
spectacular. I even take a pretty big lead fall going for the finger lock
at the last bolt. My first real lead fall in years. I lead it a second time for the redpoint. At least I consider
it a redpoint. I can't clip the chains because of the locking biners I
placed when I hung the draws. It is the last time any of us places a locking
biner the entire trip. Stupid locking biners.
After that we climb Big Angler (5.11a) which is not very sustained but has
some really tricky moves at the crux. Tricky for Yamin and I... Anna floats
right through them.
After that we take a quick swim and head to town for supplies. Yamin buys
a bottle of wine. We sit in the truck, avoiding the rain, playing Pandemic,
and getting drunk. My first real drunk in years.
Yeah.
6/26
Head to Main Wall where we climb Golddigger (5.8+) and Know Ethics (5.11a).
It starts raining really hard and so we sit and watch the Norms climb.
Which is silly because our wall is staying dry... that's the whole reason
we are at Main Wall again. But the rain is demotivating. And the Norms
are demotivating. Eventually the rain slows enough for us to remotivate.
We close down Rumney climbing Underdog (5.10a) and Polly Purebred (5.10b/c).
I'll See You In Hell, Coon Horse!!!!
6/27
Hike all the way to Triple Corners where we start on
Left El Diego (5.9) which is the shittiest climb since Little Angler.
Then we climb Technical Second (5.10b) which is also shitty. Is this my
first time ever at Triple Corners? Should be called Triple Corners Really
Sucks Ass. Bailing on TCRSA, we head to Waimea where we climb the
namesake 5.10d. Finally an awesome climb! I love Waimea. I think it is
pretty softly graded, but it gives everyone a good challenge. I don't get
the redpoint on my second lead. I climb it a third time cleanly on TR just
because I enjoy the climb so much. The day is saved! This is very
nearly the only day where it doesn't rain. Until it rains. All night.
I think you scared some Norms.
6/28
Rest Day! Rain Day! Anna and I sleep until 11. Yamin floats in his
tent until 11. We make pancakes with pears and almond butter for breakfast.
In the rain. Then we head to Plymouth where we find a crappy coffee house
with wifi. Sit there all day charging batteries and then head down the
street for some really good pizza. We can't watch climbing movies :( But
we do get Ben and Jerry's froyo and eat it while playing Pandemic.
At least I didn't tell them them the hormone joke.
6/29
Happy birthday to Yamin! In honor of his birthday, it won't rain today!
No... just kidding... it will rain a fuckstorm. Fucking rain.
Everything is wet. Even the overhung stuff is seeping. On a whim, we
stick clip up Noodle (5.12a/b) and take turns flailing on it. Pretty pointless. We head back down to Main Wall and climb Armed and Dangerous (5.10b) which
is fun as always. Then a thunderstorm rolls through. Of course. We retreat
to the truck until it passes. Then we go back to Main Wall and climb
Millennium Falcon (5.10c) which some people say is the best 5.10 at Rumney.
That's because some people are idiots. It doesn't suck ass, but it isn't
remotely the best 5.10 at Rumney. It isn't even the best 5.10 at Main Wall.
After a swim we redeem the day by playing Settlers of Catan in the truck.
True. And at least we aren't burning to death in Colorado.
6/30
We take our climbing gear for a very long walk. All the way to The Prudential
and Northwest Territories. We climb Finland (5.11a) which feels really hard
for the grade. Then we climb Niceland (5.10b) which feels really hard for
the grade. Then we climb Swedish Girls (5.10c) which feels really hard
for the grade. Maybe we are getting tired. It starts to rain. Then a big
thunderstorm rolls through. Because why the fuck not. We retreat to the
truck and don't even bother with dinner. We just eat snacks, drink wine,
and play some boring ass game that Yamin bought off of kickstarter. Oh
well. They
can't all be Seven Wonders.
Puts things in perspective... a bit of rain sure beats having the flesh melted from your bones in the raging inferno that used to be the state of Colorado.
7/1
Last day. Back to Main Wall so Anna can redpoint a 5.11 climb. She and I
both get the redpoint on Know Ethics. Wooo! I decide to extend the send
train by attempting to redpoint Clusterphobia. It becomes a massive flail
fest. I suppose I'm tired, because this climb shouldn't be that hard.
Obviously it is raining by now. We go for a swim and get some pizza.
That's it for the trip. It would be ironic if the weather cleared as
we left, but it didn't. It rained on us all the way home. Fucking rain.
Yup. Sure does.
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Converting trad draws to sport draws at the start of the trip. Rumney -- 6/24/2013 |
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Anna got a really bad rope burn in the gym a few days before the start of the trip. Rumney -- 6/24/2013 |
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Anna on Clusterphobia. Rumney -- 6/24/2013 |
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Anna on Clusterphobia. Rumney -- 6/24/2013 |
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Anna on Clusterphobia. Rumney -- 6/24/2013 |
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Anna on Clusterphobia. Rumney -- 6/24/2013 |
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Yamin on Clusterphobia. Rumney -- 6/24/2013 |
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Yamin on Clusterphobia. Rumney -- 6/24/2013 |
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Anna's rope burn. Rumney -- 6/24/2013 |
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Anna on Little Angler. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Anna on Little Angler. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Yes, Yamin brought his belay specs. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Starting up Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Rainbow tattoo courtesy of belay specs. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Me on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Me on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Me on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Me on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Really pumped from that climb. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Yamin on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Yamin on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Yamin on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Anna on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Anna on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Anna on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Anna on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Anna on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Anna on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Anna on Fucking the Dog. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Me on Big Angler. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Me on Big Angler. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Me on Big Angler. Rumney -- 6/25/2013 |
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Cooking dinner. Rumney -- 6/26/2013 |
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I'm only smiling because I don't realize what a pile of shit the next two climbs will be. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Trying to shake the shit off my hand. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna wishes she had worn over-the-elbow latex gloves for this one. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna wishes she had worn over-the-elbow latex gloves for this one. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna wishes she had worn over-the-elbow latex gloves for this one. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Trad draw to get the biner off an edge. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Yamin clipping. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Yamin getting brown sticky stuff on his shoes. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Yamin getting brown sticky stuff on his shoes. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Eft! Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Eft! Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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No Desperate Moves Anna sending China Beach (5.14b) in Chacos. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Looking at Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Me on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Me on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Me on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Me on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Me on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Me on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna getting ready to climb. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Yamin on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Yamin on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Yamin on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Yamin on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Anna on Waimea. Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Dinner Rumney -- 6/27/2013 |
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Making pancakes in the rain. Rumney -- 6/28/2013 |
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The tarp was used all trip. Rumney -- 6/28/2013 |
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Fucking rain. Rumney -- 6/28/2013 |
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Playing Pandemic in the truck. In the fucking rain. Rumney -- 6/28/2013 |
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Stick clipping up Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Stick clipping up Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Stick clipping up Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Stick clipping up Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Stick clipping up Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Yamin on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Yamin on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Chipmunk Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me on Noodle. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Butterfly Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Butterfly Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Butterfly Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Butterfly Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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This waterfall above Main Wall is not normally a waterfall. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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This waterfall above Main Wall is not normally a waterfall. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna climbing Armed and Dangerous. Her first time ever on the classic climb. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna climbing Armed and Dangerous. Her first time ever on the classic climb. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna climbing Armed and Dangerous. Her first time ever on the classic climb. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna climbing Armed and Dangerous. Her first time ever on the classic climb. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna climbing Armed and Dangerous. Her first time ever on the classic climb. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna climbing Armed and Dangerous. Her first time ever on the classic climb. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna climbing Armed and Dangerous. Her first time ever on the classic climb. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Anna climbing Armed and Dangerous. Her first time ever on the classic climb. She onsighted it. Obviously. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Yamin climbing Armed and Dangerous. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Yamin climbing Armed and Dangerous. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Yamin climbing Armed and Dangerous. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Yamin climbing Armed and Dangerous. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me climbing Armed and Dangerous. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me climbing Armed and Dangerous. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me climbing Armed and Dangerous. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me climbing Armed and Dangerous. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me climbing Armed and Dangerous. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me climbing Armed and Dangerous. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me! Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Yamin leading Millennium Falcon. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Funny how Yamin always ends up hanging the draws on the worst climbs. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Nice for me, because I usually opt to toprope the lousy ones. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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At least he gets some dramatic photos out of the deal. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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This is my favorite. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me on Millennium Falcon. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me on Millennium Falcon. Rumney -- 6/29/2013 |
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Me leading Niceland Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Me leading Niceland Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Me leading Niceland Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Me leading Niceland Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Me leading Niceland Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Yamin leading Swedish Girls. Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Yamin leading Swedish Girls. Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Yamin leading Swedish Girls. Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Yamin leading Swedish Girls. Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Yamin leading Swedish Girls. Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Anna on Swedish Girls. Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Anna on Swedish Girls. Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Anna on Swedish Girls. Rumney -- 6/30/2013 |
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Anna leading Know Ethics. Rumney -- 7/1/2013 |
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Anna leading Know Ethics. Rumney -- 7/1/2013 |
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Anna leading Know Ethics. Rumney -- 7/1/2013 |
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Anna leading Know Ethics. Rumney -- 7/1/2013 |
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Anna leading Know Ethics. Rumney -- 7/1/2013 |
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Anna leading Know Ethics. Rumney -- 7/1/2013 |
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Anna leading Know Ethics. Rumney -- 7/1/2013 |
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Anna leading Know Ethics. Rumney -- 7/1/2013 |
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Anna leading Know Ethics. Past the crux. Anna can cruise to the chains for her first 5.11 redpoint! Rumney -- 7/1/2013 |