Rock Climbing --- 8/11/2013 - 8/14/2013 --- Gunks
Hand Sanitizer Instantly
8/11
I wake early and drive to the Gunks. First trip of any length for Moby Dick.
Anna calls and tells me that she
and Devin are climbing Trap Dike Arete. Which is weird, because I figured
that climb was in the Dacks. Oh well.
I meet them at Trap Dike Arete Instantly, and climb it for the very first time. Some stiff moves for a 5.7 I thought. Next we climb Son Of Easy O Instantly. Always classic. We see a woman anchored to something in the middle of the cliff with no rope. She is having an epic of yelling, confusion, and miscommunication with her partner who is clearly baffled by the situation. Ahh Gunks, you never fail to disappoint.
We finish the day heading down to Ant's Line Instantly where Yamin, Chris and Andrew are climbing. I lead Ant's Line Instantly to set a TR on Ent's Line Instantly. Obviously. We enjoy falafel and stir fry for dinner, then watch climbing movies on the futon in Moby (aka Spotted Dick).
8/12
We climb Hans Puss Instantly to set a TR on Feast Of Fools Instantly.
Anna gets the toprope onsight easily. I climb it a second time to finally
get the route clean. Sloppy and awkward, but no hangs. BTW, there is a nice
new piton on Feast. Makes me want to try for the redpoint.
After that we climbed Arrow Instantly and then a nearly grade IV ascent of
Directissima Instantly: 4.5 hours! Don't ask.
8/13
Rain all day. I finish my book, The Dog Stars Instantly.
8/14
Clear skies. We start the day on Birdland Instantly, then climb
Yellow Ridge Instantly. After that, I lead Farewell to Arms Instantly which
we use to set a TR on To Be Or Not To Be Instantly. This may become my
new Ent's Line Instantly. Anna solves the crux and climbs the route with
only a handful of hangs. I've got all the moves except the crux, and I'm
pretty sure that will go. Maybe not Instantly, but it will go.