Rock Climbing --- 8/11/2013 - 8/14/2013 --- Gunks

Hand Sanitizer Instantly

8/11
I wake early and drive to the Gunks. First trip of any length for Moby Dick. Anna calls and tells me that she and Devin are climbing Trap Dike Arete. Which is weird, because I figured that climb was in the Dacks. Oh well.

I meet them at Trap Dike Arete Instantly, and climb it for the very first time. Some stiff moves for a 5.7 I thought. Next we climb Son Of Easy O Instantly. Always classic. We see a woman anchored to something in the middle of the cliff with no rope. She is having an epic of yelling, confusion, and miscommunication with her partner who is clearly baffled by the situation. Ahh Gunks, you never fail to disappoint.

We finish the day heading down to Ant's Line Instantly where Yamin, Chris and Andrew are climbing. I lead Ant's Line Instantly to set a TR on Ent's Line Instantly. Obviously. We enjoy falafel and stir fry for dinner, then watch climbing movies on the futon in Moby (aka Spotted Dick).

8/12
We climb Hans Puss Instantly to set a TR on Feast Of Fools Instantly. Anna gets the toprope onsight easily. I climb it a second time to finally get the route clean. Sloppy and awkward, but no hangs. BTW, there is a nice new piton on Feast. Makes me want to try for the redpoint. After that we climbed Arrow Instantly and then a nearly grade IV ascent of Directissima Instantly: 4.5 hours! Don't ask.

8/13
Rain all day. I finish my book, The Dog Stars Instantly.

8/14
Clear skies. We start the day on Birdland Instantly, then climb Yellow Ridge Instantly. After that, I lead Farewell to Arms Instantly which we use to set a TR on To Be Or Not To Be Instantly. This may become my new Ent's Line Instantly. Anna solves the crux and climbs the route with only a handful of hangs. I've got all the moves except the crux, and I'm pretty sure that will go. Maybe not Instantly, but it will go.

Devin and Anna on Son of Easy O Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Devin and Anna on Son of Easy O Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/11/2013

That blue rope is her climbing rope. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

That blue rope is her climbing rope.
She isn't tied to it.
And she can't reach it.
And it is z-dragging a cam and a shrub.
And her partner has no idea how to fix the problem.

Gunks!    Gunks -- 8/11/2013

Me leading Ant's Line Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading Ant's Line Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/11/2013

Devin making falafel. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Devin making falafel.    Gunks -- 8/11/2013

Moby Dick's first trip. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Moby Dick's first trip.    Gunks -- 8/11/2013

Anna leading Hans Puss Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading Hans Puss Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Anna leading Hans Puss Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading Hans Puss Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Blue Tailed Skink! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Blue Tailed Skink!    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Blue Tailed Skink! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Blue Tailed Skink!    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Some Other Skink! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Some Other Skink!    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Some Other Skink! (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Some Other Skink!    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Devin climbing Feast of Fools Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Devin climbing Feast of Fools Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Anna leading Arrow Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading Arrow Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Devin following Arrow Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Devin following Arrow Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Devin following Arrow Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Devin following Arrow Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Me leading Directissima Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading Directissima Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Devin (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Devin    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Me leading Directissima Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading Directissima Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Me leading Directissima Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading Directissima Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Devin on the crux of Directissima Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Devin on the crux of Directissima Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Devin enjoying the stellar arete on Directissima Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Devin enjoying the stellar arete on Directissima Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Anna leading the High E pitch. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading the High E pitch.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Anna leading the High E pitch. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading the High E pitch.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Anna leading the High E pitch. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading the High E pitch.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Anna leading the High E pitch. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading the High E pitch.    Gunks -- 8/12/2013

Avoiding the rain in the Spotted Dick. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Avoiding the rain in the Spotted Dick.    Gunks -- 8/13/2013

Anna leading Birdland Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading Birdland Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/14/2013

Anna leading Birdland Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading Birdland Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/14/2013

Anna leading Birdland Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading Birdland Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/14/2013

Devin at the crux of Birdland Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Devin at the crux of Birdland Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/14/2013

Me leading pitch 2 of Birdland Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Me leading pitch 2 of Birdland Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/14/2013

"We were going to take pictures of you leading, but instead we took selfies." --Anna    Gunks -- 8/14/2013

Anna leading Yellow Ridge Instantly. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Anna leading Yellow Ridge Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/14/2013

Sunset at the 44/55 overlook while driving home. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Sunset at the 44/55 overlook while driving home.


Instantly.    Gunks -- 8/14/2013