Rock Climbing --- 7/15/2014 - 8/14/2014 --- Washington, British Columbia, South Dakota
Mt. Stuart
"Do you want to bail now or bail later?" My question to Mike contained the implicit assumption that we would bail from this climb. "Now," was Mike's reply. He was as eager to get off Mt. Stuart as I was. And we hadn't even tied into the rope yet. "Do you want to see the glacier first?" Mike had never been on a glacier, and there was one just over the ridge a few hundred yards away. Mike's one word reply made it clear that we were turning around now. A hummingbird hovered near us. We were on a slope covered with snow and rock rubble. Not a plant to be seen in any direction. Maybe the hummingbird was some kind of sign. Maybe it was just lost.
So we turned around and retraced our steps -- thousands and thousands of them -- back to where we had set up the tent beneath the south face of Mt. Stuart. It wasn't that the climbing was too hard, or that we were unprepared, or lost, or suffering bad weather. It was just that... we weren't feeling like climbing the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart today. And that's how it goes sometimes. We drove three and a half days from Ithaca, New York to Washington State to be here. We hiked heavy packs for two days. Up and down ridges and valleys. We carried camping gear and rock climbing gear along with ice axes and crampons for the glacier. We saw beautiful alpine lakes, came within ten feet of a placid deer, saw rain and wind and sun. And that weird hummingbird.
People would tell us that sometimes you win and sometimes the mountain wins. But that isn't how I see it. This isn't a contest, and the mountain doesn't care. A friend of mine calls what we do "not dying." That is, we partake in a dangerous activity with inherent risk. Then we use our experience and judgement and skill to not die. In that regard, this was a successful trip.
We took our climbing gear for a very long walk. I might have appreciated a lighter pack, and I'd love to see the summit of Mt. Stuart some day. But overall, it was a good outing. Hiking back to the trailhead, we dropped our packs, ate some food, piled into the van, and drove to the next mountain.
It was a bit cold on Mt. Stuart, but nothing we couldn't manage.
Index
After the events on Mt. Stuart, we needed a break. We bought several baskets of Washington cherries for $1 a basket. Then we drove to Index, spitting cherry seeds out the window the whole way. Index has 300' tall granite cliffs a few hundred yards from the parking lot. And free camping on the river 1/4 mile away. Perfect! We tied into our ropes for the first time this trip to climb Great Northern Slab. Then I had an exciting time leading Godzilla. One of the best climbs I've ever done. It reminds me of Rock Wars at Red River Gorge.
The next day we looked at Racer X, which was very dirty. And we climbed Smiley Kylee. BTW, Mountain Project, the climb is exactly 100' tall, not 35' tall, mmmkay? After that climb (well... during that climb) it started raining. We retreated to the van and enjoyed an Ithaca moment running into a friend from Lindseth. With rain slated for the next 36 hours, we left Index.
Factoid: You run into Ithacans EVERYWHERE! Thanks for the guidebook, Toby.
Leavenworth
Hopefully the rain will put out the fires. The Chiwaukum Creek Fire is burning the Wenatchee National Forest. Smoke fills the valleys and obscures the mountains.
Factoid: Fire is good for blueberries, right? Why is that? Mike says that the ash from fires is acidic and blueberries like acidic soil. I believe him.
We detour many miles around the fire to drive from Index to Leavenworth. Because I like to record my free camping finds... we spend the night in Icicle Canyon, outside of Leavenworth. On the west side of town, take Icicle Road south for 8.4 miles. Turn left on 7601 and reset your odometer. Pass the Bridge Creek Campground (fee camping) and cross the river. When your odometer reads 0.4 miles, look for a small turnoff on the left. It leads to a large, flat area with enough space for half a dozen cars. Free and legal primitive camping.
Too good for climber trails, we take the Fred Beckey approach Snow Creek Wall. The 90 minutes of bushwhacking is good for our souls. This is what we keep telling ourselves.
Outer Space is 800' of perfect granite. With the top 350' a splitter hand crack. Soooooo gooooood! We climb it to celebrate Mike's birthday. His toe is very swollen and sore so I get to lead all the pitches. Mike follows the route with one foot. Which is pretty impressive.
Washington Pass
Factoid: Washington Pass is my 100th major climbing destination in the world!
I've been able to get clean two days in a row now. Took a solar shower yesterday and went swimming today. Simple things like that feel pretty decadent.
We came to Washington Pass three days ago and met up with Phil and Alana who had been here for a few days already. First day here Mike and I climbed the famous Beckey route on Liberty Bell. The climbing is very easy. It is a fun way to the summit of this iconic peak surrounded by mountains and glaciers. I also climbed the first pitch of Concord Tower, the peak adjacent to Liberty Bell. Mike's foot is still hurting him, so he just belayed me on the first pitch and then I rappelled.
The approach and descent to the Liberty/Concord notch go through a steep, loose gully. The annoyance of the rock rubble was offset by the momma and baby mountain goats we saw. They are completely habituated to humans and paid us no mind as they passed within several feet of us looking for tasty weeds to munch. I took over 100 pictures :) We rewarded ourselves with the solar shower.
Today Mike took a rest day and I climbed Prime Rib of Goat with Phil and Alana. It is an 11 pitch sport route with a huge loose scree slope at the base. The approach was miserable, and the climbing was mostly mediocre. Redeeming features:
For our final day in Washington Pass, the four of us went to climb the West Face of North Early Winter Spire. The approach was soooo much nicer than the Beckey Route approach. About 90 minutes of hiking -- generally on good trails and solid rock. Never piles of rubble. At the base of the climb we took more pictures of a mother and baby mountain goat. Then we started up the climb. Phil and Alana went first with Mike and I right behind. Out of kindness to his sore toe, Mike did the whole climb in approach shoes. I led every pitch and Mike followed what he could and ascended the rope for the rest. We linked the first two pitches quickly. Then the fun began... An excellent 5.8 third pitch with fun moves and good protection. The fourth pitch was old school 5.9+ traversing along giant flakes and a tricky roof. Then the business, the fifth pitch is a 5.11 finger crack. Phil frees the moves onsight. I had to pull on two pieces. The climbing was stellar, and I don't care one bit that I had to pull on some gear. Climbing that hard... 500' off the ground... surrounded by mountains and glaciers... that's why I climb! Phil and Alana did two more pitches to the end of the route. I linked them into one 200' rope stretcher. With climbing that started with tricky 5.10 fingers, went to a long stretch of 5.9 finger locks, and finished with a low angle run of 5.6 tight hands.
We all walked to the summit, took some photos, and then used a brand new rappel route to go straight to the ground. Six perfectly spaced single rope rappels and we were back at our packs. The hike out brought us eight more mountain goats. I really wanted to bring one of the babies home with me, but Mike and I couldn't agree which of us would get to sleep with it in our bed. You'd think we could just get one mountain goat each, but taking two goats seems a bit much. They'd probably argue over who gets to stick their head out the window while we drive.
Factoid: Not even a dumpster full of garbage will keep me from collecting booty.
Forbidden Peak
We say goodbye to Phil and Alana, then drive to the ranger station and get a bivy permit for Boston Basin. We hike to the upper bivy site. The hike climbs over 3000' in elevation and we have to cross some badly eroded stream beds around the lower bivy. We get to the upper bivy around 4pm.
The next morning we wake at 3:30am to climb the West Ridge of Forbidden. About half way up the snowfield to the base of the notch, we stop. Mike's foot just isn't up to a full day of climbing and the hike back to the car. We turn around, pack up our campsite, and hike back to the trailhead.
By now you might be thinking, "You guys bail on everything. What's up with that?" To which I might respond, "Climb it yourself if you care that much. We are doing our own thing. Thanks." I am excited to plan a Second Chances trip one of these days. It will be an attempt on The Maiden in Boulder, Exum Direct on the Grand Teton, North Ridge of Mt. Stuart, and West Ridge of Forbidden. It will be an awesome summer!
...interlude...
Post Office Guy: It isn't here.
Me: Really? Check again?
Guy: No not here.
Me: It should be.
Guy: I looked everywhere.
Me: Yeah, but it was mailed last week and should definitely be here.
Guy: Well, we don't have it.
Me: I have a delivery confirmation from your own web site.
Guy: Don't know what to tell you. We definitely don't have it. Maybe try
another post office.
Post Office Lady: This is it, right here.
Me: Thanks!
Guy: Oh, I didn't look there.
When: Every time I travel with Mike
Where: Every post office we go to
US Post Office: We get paid whether or not you get your mail!
Canada
After an hour at the border crossing and another hour at the tunnel, we reach Vancouver. We have dinner with Guy, Cat, Joanna, Carl, Jasper, Joelle, and Joni. I'm super jealous that they get to hang out whenever they want, and am glad to be able to join in the fun tonight.
Saturday Mike, Guy, Cat and I go to Area 44. Cat just injured her ankle, so she isn't climbing. She draws pictures of us. We climb Sideshow, Rocky Horror, and The Climb Warp (which is really hard!). It is hot and the south facing crag is in the sun. So after those three pitches we go swimming.
We timed our visit to coincide with the Vancouver fireworks competition! I was here for that a few years ago, and I know it is going to be awesome. We sit on the beach and watch Japan's amazing fireworks show. Stellar!
After being up late watching fireworks it is difficult to wake at 4:15am Sunday morning, but Guy and I manage. We blast to Squamish and climb Angel's Crest. This is a super classic 1400' climb up a ridge line on the left side of The Chief. The climb takes us about eight hours. We manage to be in the shade the entire time which is fantastic! The route is really stellar and feels like the limit of my onsight ability with six or seven 5.10 pitches in the mix.
Factoid: Mike really puts his finger on it this evening. When discussing whether to climb rocks or ice or stairs, Mike tells us which of the three he would go for every time. And there is general concurrence. If this factoid makes no sense, it could be that I have the three options wrong.
The next day we start with waffles then head to Lynn Canyon for a rest day. Apparently with half the population of Vancouver. But we hike a bit down the canyon and avoid the crowds. We spend the evening eating quiche with Joanna and her family. There was also a sushi dinner and pesto pasta with stir fried veggies. And blueberry pie. This is the non-diet part of our diet trip.
Mt. Gimli (Canada, Part II)
Let me just foreshadow this one a bit... we actually reach the summit of an alpine climb! Huzzah!
Factoid: Mountain Goats will drink your pee and porcupines will eat your brake lines and tires. Because animals are idiots.
The drive to the Gimli trailhead is right at Moby's limit. It takes well over an hour to drive the 24km dirt road into Valhalla Provincial Park. One steep hill takes me three tries to get up, backing all the way down each time.
Compared to the drive, the hike is fairly easy. About 4km and 700m of elevation gain to the bivy site. It takes about two hours of fairly easy walking. We take photos of mountain goats and settle in early for the night.
Factoid: Mountain Goats are more closely related to antelope than lowland goats. So perhaps they should be called Mountain Antelope. Or Carnivorous Mountain Antelope.
The next day we are up at 4am. One other party just beats us to the base of the climb. We wait for them to finish the strenuous first pitch then they move quickly and are never in our way again. After that first pitch we move quickly too. Mike is wearing his climbing shoes which makes his toe hurt, but he frees the entire climb. I'm still completely uninjured so I lead all the pitches. We link 2&3 and 6&7 so do the climb in five pitches with a long bit of simulclimbing at the end. It takes us six hours to reach the true summit on the north peak. The crux move below the roof goes pretty easily for me once I figure out the sequence. It would protect perfectly with a blue alien. It was reasonable with a green alien -- which is the smallest we had with us. Our rack was cams from green alien to #2 camalot, with doubles of .5 to 1 and a set of nuts. If I climb it again, I'd bring another #2 or a #3, mostly for the first pitch.
From the summit it was 3 hours of scree and dirt surfing back to the bivy site. And another two hours of hiking back to the trailhead. A long day, but not crazy long. Fantastic climb!
On the way out of Canada I spend my last loonie on a full pound of fresh blueberries.
Factoid: Mike likes his blueberries like he likes his women... hot and bubbly.
After an easy border crossing we are back in the USA and driving east toward home.
South Dakota
Factoid: Climbers experience less stress in day-to-day life because climbing puts other sources of stress into perspective.
No reason to drive straight back to Ithaca. We stop in Custer State Park, South Dakota to climb at The Needles. 5.8 that feels like 5.10 with only two pieces of gear in 60' and potential groundfall at the crux? Perfect? We stick to really easy climbing in this bold climbing area.
We are proud of ourselves for finding the free camping area late at night with very little beta. Poverty Gulch is in the national forest. Off 89 between the town of Custer and Sylvan Lake. East of the road opposite the only white fence you will see on the road. You're welcome.
Factoid: Three AA batteries would fit inside a D cell. You could get a D cell size case that held three AAs and used them in parallel so the voltage stayed at 1.5V.
We are both pretty tired in the Needles. We climb Tricouni (aka Cerebus) which is really fun. I go down to get photos of Mike on top, then climb it a second time so we can do the classic Needle simulrappel off opposite sides of the tower. Since I was on toprope, I went for the direct finish after the ring bolt, which goes around 5.10a. After that we rest in the shade for a few hours. Then we climb Tent Peg and get some great photos. The climbing in the Needles is ok, but the photos are awesome!
The next day we head to Mount Rushmore. Yup, there is climbing on the back side of the national monument. We head to South Seas where we climb at Shipyard Rock and Hornets Nest. I get on a pair of the Wave routes. The first is pretty crappy, but the second is really good. It is a long pitch and requires two rappels to get back to the ground. Then we climb Second Hand Rose Arete. The 130' pitch traverses enough that the anchors are just 100' above the ground. I take Mike's suggestion (sarcastic suggestion?) and clean the pitch as I climb, placing about six draws, lowering, cleaning four draws and repeating the process. At the top of the climb, I'm at the anchors and the route is clean. Brilliant! All at once, I'm back on the ground, the rope is coiled, and the climbing trip is over.