Rock Climbing --- 7/16/2017 - 9/8/2017 --- Michigan, Wyoming, Colorado, Montana, Washington, British Columbia
7/16 - Slacklining with Emily and Julia in Ann Arbor. Food and thrift shops and lost keys.
7/20 - Met up with Katie and Adam and Owen in Vedauwoo, WY. Our first climbing day we went to Beehive which is unusual for Vedauwoo in that it is mostly bolt protected face climbing. We climbed Lucky Groove, Five Days One Summer, Fun Button, Gypsy Fire, Surfaris and Noxious Invasives.
The next day we went to Nautilus with Jackie and Ryan. I struggled up La Goellette. We also climbed Ha Tayvaw, Cupcake and Old Eyeful (which had some crazy caving in the middle).
7/23 - We arrive in Wild Iris and score a gorgeous site in the trees. With a few hours in the afternoon to climb we walk to Blooming Rose and climb Phat Phinger Phrenzy, Brown Dirt Cowgirl, and Aces and Eights.
The next day we head to Rodeo Drive and climb Ticks for Chicks, Wind River Muzzle Loaders, The Hanging Tree, Ride Me Cowgirl and Dirty Sally. After lunch we go back to Blooming Rose to climb Stacked Deck and Roll in the Hay.
Our final day in Wild Iris is stymied by intermittent rain showers. Still we head to Zorro and climb Huggys Pullup and Cirque de Suave. Then after lunch head to Tribal War and manage to get on Rope the Moon and Urban Cowboys (an awesome route!) without getting too wet.
7/26 - We arrive in Grand Teton National Park and get a site in Colter Bay. Expensive but convenient to everything we want to do. The next day we have a great time exploring Yellowstone National Park. Many many geothermal sites, some nice hiking, and far too many people.
7/29 - After a rest/prep day. Adam and I are up at midnight to climb Exum Direct! This turned into a 23 hour car-to-car epic. Yeah, I know you can bike from Jackson, swim Jenny lake, summit the Grand, and reverse the process in less time. Good for you. We had various snafus (my "plan" to shuttle gear up the trail before returning to the car for my puffy jacket, our inability to find our stashed trekking poles, etc.) But mostly we were slow because of the altitude. Flatlanders like us can't move quickly above 12000'. Sometimes I felt like I couldn't move at all. So, yeah, we got up at midnight, and got back to bed at 1am the next day. Or next next day depending on which day you associate with midnight.
The approach was straightforward since I've been to the lower saddle twice before. There were at least five parties all reaching the start about the same time. The first party was slow, so everyone was working their own strategies to get around them. A party of three climbed a variation to the first pitch. Adam and I were simulclimbing on a single 60m twin rope doubled in half. Another party free soloed past everyone. We ended up being the second party at the crux fifth pitch, behind the free soloists (who roped up for this pitch). We waited just a few minutes, then Adam sent the pitch. I realize it is only 5.7, but the pitch is pretty intimidating. Mediocre gear, slick feet and sustained climbing at 13000' with a pack. Adam was a hero. And luckily the pitch was only about 110' long, so we didn't have to simul much. I finished cleaning the pitch before any of the other parties were ready to start it. That was the last we saw of crowds as the soloists moved far ahead of us and everyone else was far behind.
Upper Exum was annoying to climb with a rope. The drag kept us from climbing long stretches. But we managed an excellent job of routefinding and reached the summit around 3pm. We did the six pitches of Lower Exum in four simul pitches, and did the twelve pitches of Upper Exum in about ten more pitches (like I said, it was hard to pull the rope for a long distance). If I were to do it again, I'd probably pack the rope and solo most of Upper Exum, keeping the rope available for the few places with hard moves or significant exposure.
From the summit we headed down Owen Spaulding. Just like when Guy and I were there on my first trip to the Grand, we were too far skiers right in the loose gully. But we managed to get down. And even found the Eye of the Needle above the lower saddle. At that point it was just a long long walk back to the car. Took us about six hours to walk down, mostly because I was living up to my sloth ancestry and moving... very... very... slow...
7/31 - With just one rest day after the Grand, I'm ready to get up at 4:30am and climb Symmetry Spire with Katie. We see elk and moose before dawn. The approach is straightforward, though the first bit of climber's trail is dreadfully overgrown. We climb the Southwest Ridge. The first two pitches are like playing a jenga game you are about to lose. Terrible rock quality. Then things improve. Third pitch is awesome! Fourth has a hard start protected by 50 year-old pins. Fifth pitch has great exposure. We scramble and simul a few hundred more feet to the summit then walk down (with one rappel past the worst part of the loose gully). It ends up being a 16 hour day. So... easy by Teton standards.
8/1 - Get to spend the day with Rob, Donna, Elaina, Amanda! We walk around Jackson Lake, slackline, play much schafskopf, and EAT FREE ICE CREAM!!! Thanks Backroads!
8/2 - Back with Katie, Adam and Owen. We spend the day in Dinosaur National Monument which I really enjoy. In the afternoon we reach Rifle where we climb Irish Blood, Deutsches Blut (I swear, that's the name, and I didn't even bleed on the climb), and Rachel's Route (wtf? is this my family crag?). The next morning we start on Jeff's Route and I am completely creeped out by the sequence of climb names. Sorry Brett, no routes for you. I think that's a good thing. We finish the day climbing Carlin, T-Mac, Malmsteen, and Loving You is a Dirty Job. We head out of Rifle the next morning (passing Raph and Dillon without really realizing it). Adam and I drive to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison to find some humility.
8/5 - A miserable night of zero sleep due to rain and mice has me already regretting the choice of climbing in the Black when we wake at 4:30am. Route finding, wet rock, chossy rock, fully stuck rope and badly stuck gear are all I remember from the day. The views are sweet, but the climbing is sour. We manage to finish the Casual Route without sacrificing any gear to the climbing gods. Then we drive to Colorado Springs. And I get my first shower since Michigan (that was back at the start of this story... scroll up if you want, though I didn't specifically mention the shower in the text).
8/6 - A fun day with Katie's extended family in Colorado Springs. We climb two unknown routes at Garden of the Gods (unknown to me, not to the Gods themselves). In the evening we eat a delicious dinner and I spend two hours learning to ride a Ripstick. I get pretty good at it, if I do say so myself.
8/8 - I pick up Jackie in Nederland and we meet Katie and Adam to climb at Little Eiger in Clear Creek Canyon. We climb Bush Administration, The Naked Hedge, Busch Gardens, and Eiger Direct. I say a final goodbye to Katie and Adam as the rain starts and head toward Rocky Mountain National Park with Jackie.
8/9 - We really want to climb Culp-Bossier on Hallett, but the forecast sucks. So we hike Hallett instead. Ten mile round trip up Flattop Mountain to Hallett. We mostly don't hike Hallett. It is just the tip. We see elk, pika, marmots and a weasel.
8/10 - Jackie and I scramble the Second Flatiron. Then we meet Max at the Bihedrals in Boulder Canyon where we head to The Riviera and climb Au Natural, Topless Etiquette, Bosch Blanket Bingo and Beach Bum. Fleeing the cliff just as a massive thunderstorm rolls through.
That evening I head to Lafayette and have dinner with Emily and Brian.
8/13 - In Billings with Taylor. We climb at Rimrock, which is walking distance from her house. We climb Cliffs of Insanity, Inconceivable, some unknown climb, Prime Rib and Betty Rubble. An excellent day capped by pizza, ginger beer, Game of Thrones, and Ben and Jerry's. So that was pretty much the best day possible. The only thing which would have made it better is a nice MLT -- mutton, lettuce and tomato sandwich -- where the mutton is nice and lean and the tomato is ripe.
8/18 - Guy and I meet up at the Five Mouse Grave Trailhead in the Cascades to climb Mt. Stuart. On Friday we make a leisurely hike to a gorgeous camp site below Lake Ingalls. We watch clouds engulf Stuart and hope for better weather the next day.
Up at 4am and hiking shortly after we make good time through Stuart Pass and Goat Pass. From there we have to cross the Stuart Glacier. It is a huge mess up high where we want to cross to reach the North Ridge. After careful routefinding and a few aborted attempts, we find a safe crossing which requires three roped pitches to reach rock. Here Guy makes a heroic lead to move across the glacier's moat and on to rock... belayed above a 40' drop off two sunk axes and some crossed fingers. Not for luck or anything, that's just my belay technique.
Guy stretched that pitch a full 200'. From there we did two very long simul pitches to reach the North Ridge proper. Over 1000' of climbing just to get from the glacier to our climb. Then we started to move quickly. We started rock climbing around 11am and reached the ridge less than an hour later. After that we climbed four long simul pitches to the gendarme. I led the first gendarme pitch which was a burly hand crack. Guy got the second pitch which gets an offwidth designation in some guides. I found it to be perfect fists and Guy thought it was tight fists in places.
After finishing the gendarme we did two more long simul pitches to the summit (not counting me getting us lost twice). Something like 3000' of rock climbing in total. We enjoyed the beautiful sunset from the summit... though the beauty is somewhat tempered by the anticipation of a 4000' descent in the dark. We found the Cascadian Couloir easily enough and most of the descent went well. But we had beta to move west into trees when they appear, and that got us lost. On the lower flanks of Stuart we spent a solid hour off trail, just moving downhill toward the trail we knew we would intersect at the base of the mountain. Which we did. From there it was two miles and 1300' of elevation back to our tents below Lake Ingalls, which we reached at 2am. A long day but with flawless weather and no significant difficulties.
In retrospect, it might have been easier to just climb the direct North Ridge which could be done without axes and crampons. It would have added three pitches of 5.8-5.9 and another 1000' of simulclimbing, but would have eliminated all our time on the glacier and the 1000' of simulclimbing to reach the North Ridge. Oh well. Our rack was fingers to #4 with doubles of .5 to 2. A large rack, but very helpful for long simul pitches. The #4 was placed on every pitch and was useful for pounding ice axes. Highly recommended!
The next morning we packed our tents and made our way back to the trailhead. This second chances road trip is going pretty well. Success at both Exum Direct on the Grand Teton and North Ridge of Mt. Stuart. Now if I can just get up the Grand Wall on the Squamish Chief that will make it a trifecta.
8/21 - Made it to Vancouver the night before. So I'm able to enjoy the eclipse with Joanna and Joni today. Carl, Jasper and Joelle went down to Corvallis to be in the totality zone. I'm happy to see a 90% eclipse with a shower and bed available.
8/25 - Guy and I meet up in Squamish and make a late in the day run at Rock On, a five pitch 5.10a which is probably the best climb I've done in Squamish. Every pitch is stellar. I would even be willing to climb it with a backpack, though I'd rather make Guy carry it. We get back to the Apron parking just as the sun sets and meet up with Cat.
8/26 - We plan a relaxing day at Murrin. We head to The Commonwealth and climb Fanfare For The Common Man, The Total Stinkeye, and Ancient Squamish Secret. We spend the rest of the day hanging out at the small lake.
8/27 - We are awake at 4am. Our feeling is we would rather be the shitshow, than be behind the shitshow. Though today we are neither. We managed to start climbing just as it became light enough to see... everything except the first bolt on Mercy Me. Oops. I led the Mercy Me start in one 70m pitch. Then Guy led the hard traverse to the base of the Split Pillar. I led the Split Pillar pitch, which is one of the best pitches I've ever led. Reminds me of Our Father in Red Rocks. After that, I led the Sword pitch (which was very hard) and continued up the boat rope to the top of the bolt ladder. From there, Guy led Perry's Lieback, which was very hard. I led the Flats which was actually a really fun and challenging pitch. Guy finished the climb by leading the Sail Flake. At this point we were both in full aid mode for a good portion of the pitch. I think I could free the entire route except for the Sword pitch (and A0 sections) but it would take some work. Not today. From there we stayed roped up for the Bellygood Ledge traverse. I crawled on my belly like a skink for vastly longer than was necessary. Guy was kind enough not to take pictures. After that we descended the slabs and tourist trail to the parking lot where we met up with Cat. She documented her day (and our climb) in a set of instagram posts which she then converted into a video you just have to see. Cat will be my first friend to go big time viral on the Internet. Remember I told you so here.
We climbed from 6am to 1pm and were in the shade the entire time. Which was awesome. Back in the parking lot around 3pm we saw a party on Sail Flake in full sun. I felt bad for them. And good for us. That was the only other party we saw on the route all day. Which is surprising for a slightly warm but otherwise stellar Sunday.
It was an amazing day, and I suppose I did manage the trifecta of three new 100 Classic Climbs on this road trip. Wooo!
9/1 - Rabbit rabbit. Driving back east through blankets of smoke. It covers Washington to North Dakota. I'd hate to live here and be breathing this for months on end. Today I'm near Billings, so Taylor and I go for a nice hike in the Beartooth Mountains to Mystic Lake.
9/6 - A stop in Michigan to visit with Emily and Julia. Far too much food and a trip to Belle Isle park in Detroit.
9/8 - Home after quite the long trip.