Backpacking --- 1/12/2018 - 2/13/2018 --- Patagonia

One month trip to Patagonia

After a few days in NYC and a very long set of flights to El Calafate and another bus ride, we arrived in El Chalten. Did a tiny bit of sport climbing at Vescho and Paredon de los Condors. Then we set out on the first of three backpacking loops. An easy three day trip to Lago de los Tres and Laguna Torre. Perfect weather along with gorgeous views of the Fitz Roy range and Cerro Torre.

After a rest day or two we set out on our second backpacking loop. We hiked the four day Huemul circuit. This was a really fun loop. More difficult and remote than the crowded hikes closer to El Chalten. Again we had perfect weather and amazing views. Crossing the Paso del Viento on the second day and seeing the southern Patagonian ice field was a once in lifetime experience. This is the third largest store of fresh water in the world (after the ice fields in Antarctica and Greenland). It is massive on a scale that pictures can't convey. On the third day we hiked along the Viedma glacier. At about 1000 km^2 it is the largest glacier in Argentina. The Huemul circuit was by far the highlight of my entire trip to Patagonia.

After another rest day it was time to leave El Chalten. Two days of busses got us to Punta Arenas. Our plan was to see the penguins on Isla Magdalena but high winds kept all the boats in port. Biggest disappointment of the trip, but a good reason to return. We did see a few museums and toured replicas of a bunch of famous ships.

Then off to Puerto Natales. This is the gateway to Torres del Paine. We had reservations for a modified version of the O Loop backpacking circuit. Six days in the park were awesome. Weather was mostly good, though the trail to Tres Torres was closed due to high winds on the day we planned to hike it. And we had one 17 hour rain storm. Which very luckily occurred on the day we had a very short hike to Los Perros. So we managed to spend the entire stretch of rain in camp (it was also the only time in 13 days of backpacking in Patagonia that I needed to turn on my headlamp... yay for long summer days!) Highlights include many glaciers including the 270 km^2 Glacier Grey.

Returning to Puerto Natales for a few days, we mostly rested. Though we did hike Cerro Dorotea to get a great view of the region. Like all of our other hikes, this was counterclockwise. Because of the coriolis effect in the southern hemisphere.

Back in El Calafate we had one day to fill before our flights home. We went to the Perito Moreno glacier (which is what EVERYONE in El Calafate does). It is a large (260 km^2) glacier about 8 km wide at the terminus, with cliffs 50m to 70m tall. The terminus hasn't moved much for decades, allowing the park service to erect a bunch of steel walkways and observation decks. The glacier is relatively fast moving, progressing about 2m per day. So it calves frequently and somewhat dramatically. A great way to end the trip!


There is plenty of beta online for people interested in backpacking in Patagonia. I'll add my thoughts here. Everything was current and correct as of early 2018, but things change.

  • Bring a critter resistant sack for storing food and hang it when possible. We saw mice in many of the campgrounds. Rangers report birds attacking unsecured food hanging from trees.
  • The rangers will tell you that all the water in the park is safe to drink. But they aren't microbiologists performing weekly testing on every single lake and stream and rivulet. What they mean is that there haven't been any outbreaks of waterborne disease in the park. So if you want to drink unfiltered water, you will probably be fine. Best practice would be to select water as clean as possible (clear, moving streams with no glacial silt) and be far upstream of the designated camping areas (we saw all sorts of unhygenic practices in the campgrounds). Then I treated my water with a half strength dose of iodine (1 tablet per liter) and a very long contact time before drinking. I don't like the taste of full strength iodine and didn't have any ascorbic acid to neutralize the taste. Or filter, or chlorine, or boil, or drink it straight. Your choice. It was wet enough while we were there that I would have been fine never carrying more than a liter of water at a time.
  • There are no fees to hike in the park from El Chalten. I'll bet this changes in a year or two, especially since you pay a significant amount of money to enter the exact same park in El Calafate. You do need a free permit to hike the Huemul circuit. The rangers will make sure you have sufficient gear for the trip (tent, stove, map, etc) and appropriate gear for the two tyrolean traverses over the rivers. They require harnesses, tethers, locking biners, 30 meters of light cord, and at least one steel locking biner per party. We didn't have one and had to rent the steel biner in town. Outfitters in town will rent a full set of everything you need for ranger approval. There is a fine for hiking Huemul without a permit and our permits were checked by rangers on the second day of our hike. Even if you plan to ford the rivers and eat cold food, you have to show your harness and stove. BTW, the rangers we encountered knew very little about climbing gear. They were very skeptical of our dyneema slings and only trusted the stupid retired rope tethers with 1/4" knot tails that were rented by the local outfitters.
  • Trip reports on the internet claim the Huemul circuit is remote and wild and dangerous. Maybe it was, but it isn't now. We were on the circuit with about 20 other people stopping at the same camps each night. The trail is occasionally braided, but always there. The trails appear on maps you can buy in town and are in the Open Maps database which is accessible through applications like maps.me (which you should get because it is awesomely cool). Here is the kml file I used. The main trail did not match this kml file on day four, but otherwise it was very accurate.
  • I'd consider hiking the Huemul circuit clockwise even though everyone does it counterclockwise. Benefits: You arrange a ride to the Bahia Tunel dock trailhead from town to start your hike, which is easier than trying to hitch a ride back to town at the end of your hike. And you hike the very steep, loose section of trail on the flanks of Huemul uphill. Which must be easier than downhill. Also, since nobody else is doing it that way, the tyros aren't crowded when you get to them. Maybe there is a reason people don't go clockwise. I don't know.
  • YOU ARE DOING THE TYRO WRONG. I'm almost certain of this. Every single person we saw on the tyro (including a threesome of climbers!) was making some mistake. So you are probably doing it wrong too. Nobody managed to fall in the river, but that just means they were lucky. Here is the deal... you ALMOST CERTAINLY don't know what you are doing, you CAN'T POSSIBLY learn enough from 15 minutes of training by an outfitter or watching a video in the park office, therefore you are TAKING A RISK. Better to just ford the rivers if the water level is low enough. Which has its own inherent risks. Finally, if you do decide to do the tyro, and you use your gear loop to anchor yourself while attaching backpacks, you should definitely use a shoelace to tie your gear loop to the anchor point. That way when you fall in the river, the shoelace will break instead of ripping your gear loop off. Oh, that was already your plan? Ok, excellent, carry on. (That was the best mistake I saw... wish I had a photo!)
  • The internet says to buy supplies in El Calafate before going to El Chalten. That's wrong. You can get everything you need in El Chalten and the prices are reasonable.
  • Canister stoves rock. We actually never bought a canister, surviving on partially used canisters which were abandoned by people leaving town. If you have to buy canisters, they can be had at a reasonable price in El Chalten and Puerto Natales. White gas can be found, but it will probably be old and will clog the filters in your stove. That was my experience in Peru and I saw it happen to other backpackers in Patagonia.
  • Torres del Paine is the opposite of Huemul in many ways. Very expensive, very crowded, permits and reservations required for everything. The popularity is well deserved because it is beautiful. But don't go expecting a wilderness experience. Or an experience free of red tape.
  • The park rangers everywhere we went were very professional, competent and helpful. Though they may not speak english (but you should speak at least some spanish since you are traveling in spanish speaking countries... lazy american). The employees of Fantastico Sur and Vertice were a mixed bag. Some helpful and some stoned out of their mind.
  • For Torres del Paine, there are many good internet resources. Though most are out of date. Alan's blog was pretty current when I was doing research, especially if you scan through the comments section. I found it a huge pain to coordinate reservations across multiple companies. And for the back side of the O loop there is no option to skip sites. You simply can't book a reservation that way. And Vertice seems to always claim that camping is full anywhere they have a very expensive bed available, forcing you to pay for the bed. When you arrive, magically there are plenty of camping spaces for just a few dollars (but no refunds on your very expensive bed in a dorm). Many people encountered this, not just us.
  • CONAF supposedly accepts credit cards for the Torres del Paine entry fee, but the system was broken when we were there and we had to pay cash. We also needed cash for the ferry to Pudeto. Luckily we had pre-paid all our other reservations and bus tickets, because we were fully out of money. I suppose that was a good thing because it kept us from spending money on the vastly overpriced snacks at each of the refugios.
  • Remember to always carry your migration receipt when you are in Chile. The border control officer may or may not mention this when he gives it to you. It is needed everywhere you camp so you don't have to pay the VAT which is nearly 20%.
Flying out of JFK (Category:  Backpacking)

Flying out of JFK    NYC -- 1/15/2018

Stretching my legs after 24 hours of travel. (Category:  Backpacking)

Stretching my legs after 24 hours of travel.    El Calafate, Argentina -- 1/16/2018

Bla! That is a fat dog! (Category:  Backpacking)

Bla! That is a fat dog!    El Calafate, Argentina -- 1/17/2018

Made it to El Chalten! (Category:  Backpacking)

Made it to El Chalten!    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018

Climbing at Vescho (Category:  Backpacking)

Climbing at Vescho    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018

Climbing at Vescho (Category:  Backpacking)

Climbing at Vescho    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018

Climbing at Vescho (Category:  Backpacking)

Climbing at Vescho    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018

Climbing at Vescho (Category:  Backpacking)

Climbing at Vescho    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018

Climbing at Vescho (Category:  Backpacking)

Climbing at Vescho    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018

Buscando. 5.10d, onsight. The one climb I actually enjoyed. (Category:  Backpacking)

Buscando. 5.10d, onsight. The one climb I actually enjoyed. I really need to go back and climb something in the Fitz Roy range!    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018

Pigeons (Category:  Backpacking)

Pigeons    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018

I was going to make the joke that

Joke Fail #1

I was going to make the joke that "They gave us the wrong key!" but the first time I held the key up to the door, I had them in the opposite order. Which was funny, but not the joke I was aiming for.    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018

Worst weather in the world = Worst jokes in the world (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #2

Worst weather in the world = Worst jokes in the world    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018

This is such an international city that temperature is reported in both Celsius and Celsius. (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #3

This is such an international city that temperature is reported in both Celsius and Celsius.    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018

Climbing at Paredon de los Condors (Category:  Backpacking)

Climbing at Paredon de los Condors    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018

Climbing at Paredon de los Condors (Category:  Backpacking)

Climbing at Paredon de los Condors    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018

Climbing at Paredon de los Condors (Category:  Backpacking)

Climbing at Paredon de los Condors    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018

The merging of Rio Fitz Roy (Category:  Backpacking)

The merging of Rio Fitz Roy (which is filled with glacial silt) and Rio de Las Vueltas (which is not)    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018

Climbing at Paredon de los Condors (Category:  Backpacking)

Climbing at Paredon de los Condors    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018

Starting the hike up to Lago de los Tres (Category:  Backpacking)

Starting the hike up to Lago de los Tres    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

Hiking to Lago de los Tres (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking to Lago de los Tres    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

Hiking to Lago de los Tres (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking to Lago de los Tres    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

Hiking to Lago de los Tres (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking to Lago de los Tres    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

Be careful where you leave your car... when you are five miles from the nearest road. (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #4

Be careful where you leave your car... when you are five miles from the nearest road.    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

Follow the Yellow Stick Road (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #5, part 1

Follow the Yellow Stick Road    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

Somewhere Over the Rainbow (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #5, part 2

Somewhere Over the Rainbow    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

Something about Patagonia... we saw rainbows almost every day (Category:  Backpacking)

Something about Patagonia... we saw rainbows almost every day    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

No Laura... you have to run BEHIND me while I take the panorama (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #6

No Laura... you have to run BEHIND me while I take the panorama    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

Lago de los Tres (Category:  Backpacking)

Lago de los Tres    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

Bird (Category:  Backpacking)

Bird    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018

Fitz Roy Range (Category:  Backpacking)

Fitz Roy Range    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018

Fitz Roy Range (Category:  Backpacking)

Fitz Roy Range    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018

Fitz Roy Range. Have I mentioned how much I want to climb one of these? (Category:  Backpacking)

Fitz Roy Range. Have I mentioned how much I want to climb one of these?    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018

Actually, I thought this was pretty funny (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #7

Actually, I thought this was pretty funny    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018

Fitz Roy Range (Category:  Backpacking)

Fitz Roy Range    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018

Headed toward Laguna Torre (Category:  Backpacking)

Headed toward Laguna Torre    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018

Thanks Chez Samson! (Category:  Backpacking)

Thanks Chez Samson!    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018

Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, and Aguja Standhardt (Category:  Backpacking)

Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, and Aguja Standhardt    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018

Sit on all the rocks! (Category:  Backpacking)

Sit on all the rocks!    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018

Laguna Torre with Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, and Aguja Standhardt behind and to the right. Centered in the foreground are the Adela mountains. (Category:  Backpacking)

Laguna Torre with Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, and Aguja Standhardt behind and to the right. Centered in the foreground are the Adela mountains.    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018

Jetboil (Category:  Backpacking)

Jetboil    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/21/2018

El Chalten (Category:  Backpacking)

El Chalten    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/21/2018

250g of gelato  (Category:  Backpacking)

250g of gelato    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/21/2018

250g of waffles (Category:  Backpacking)

250g of waffles    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/21/2018

Looks like someone could push that boulder right off the hill (Category:  Backpacking)

Looks like someone could push that boulder right off the hill    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018

Cerro Huemul (Category:  Backpacking)

Cerro Huemul    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018

Cerro Huemul (Category:  Backpacking)

Cerro Huemul    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018

Cerro Huemul (Category:  Backpacking)

Cerro Huemul    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018

Red berries (Category:  Backpacking)

Red berries    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018

Cerro Huemul (Category:  Backpacking)

Cerro Huemul    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018

Penguin swing (Category:  Backpacking)

Penguin swing    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018

Rio Tunel near camp Toro (Category:  Backpacking)

Rio Tunel near camp Toro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018

Non-silty water from a small creek upstream of camp Toro (Category:  Backpacking)

Non-silty water from a small creek upstream of camp Toro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018

Start of day 2. Laura hiking with Tracey and Nitai (Category:  Backpacking)

Start of day 2. Laura hiking with Tracey and Nitai    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Me on the tyro across Rio Tunel (Category:  Backpacking)

Me on the tyro across Rio Tunel    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Laura on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Laura on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Laura on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Laura on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Laura on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Laura on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Leah on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Leah on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Leah on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Leah on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Leah on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Leah on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Tracey on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Tracey on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Tracey on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Tracey on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Tracey on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Tracey on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Nitai on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Nitai on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Nitai on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Nitai on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Nitai on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Nitai on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Nitai on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Nitai on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Penguin on the tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Penguin on the tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Rio Tunel Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Rio Tunel Glacier    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Rio Tunel Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Rio Tunel Glacier    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Rio Tunel Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Rio Tunel Glacier    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Laura on the glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Laura on the glacier    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Penguin (Category:  Backpacking)

Penguin running around the glacier    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Approaching Paso del Viento (Category:  Backpacking)

Approaching Paso del Viento    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Approaching Paso del Viento (Category:  Backpacking)

Approaching Paso del Viento    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Laura and Leah at Paso del Viento (Category:  Backpacking)

Laura and Leah at Paso del Viento    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

The Southern Patagonian Ice Fields!!! (Category:  Backpacking)

The Southern Patagonian Ice Fields!!!    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

The Southern Patagonian Ice Fields!!! (Category:  Backpacking)

The Southern Patagonian Ice Fields!!!    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

The Southern Patagonian Ice Fields!!! (Category:  Backpacking)

The Southern Patagonian Ice Fields!!!    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Laura and Leah descending from the pass (Category:  Backpacking)

Laura and Leah descending from the pass    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Leah descending from the pass (Category:  Backpacking)

Leah descending from the pass    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Mating grasshoppers? (Category:  Backpacking)

Mating grasshoppers?    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Approaching the refugio (Category:  Backpacking)

Approaching the refugio    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Approaching the refugio (Category:  Backpacking)

Approaching the refugio    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018

Viedma Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Viedma Glacier    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018

Viedma Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Viedma Glacier    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018

Viedma Lake with bits of Viedma Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Viedma Lake with bits of Viedma Glacier    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018

Viedma Lake with bits of Viedma Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Viedma Lake with bits of Viedma Glacier    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018

Camp Cow Skull (Category:  Backpacking)

Camp Cow Skull    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018

Camp Cow Skull (Category:  Backpacking)

Camp Cow Skull    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018

Camp Cow Skull (Category:  Backpacking)

Camp Cow Skull    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018

You know that it would be untrue (Category:  Backpacking)

Leah is having a bad spork day

You know that it would be untrue
You know that I would be a liar
If I was to say to you
I highly recommend getting a long-handled titanium spoon
   El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018

Sunrise and rainbow over Camp Cow Skull (Category:  Backpacking)

Sunrise and rainbow over Camp Cow Skull    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018

Sunrise and rainbow over Camp Cow Skull (Category:  Backpacking)

Sunrise and rainbow over Camp Cow Skull    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018

Final tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Final tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018

Final tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Final tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018

Final tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Final tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018

Final tyro (Category:  Backpacking)

Final tyro    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018

I don't usually take this many food pictures (Category:  Backpacking)

I don't usually take this many food pictures    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018

Really, I don't (Category:  Backpacking)

Really, I don't    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/27/2018

But I had to get a shot a Sebastiaan and his Calafate Berry Milkshake (Category:  Backpacking)

But I had to get a shot a Sebastiaan and his Calafate Berry Milkshake    El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/27/2018

Local performers (Category:  Backpacking)

Local performers    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Not at all sketchy electrical work (Category:  Backpacking)

Not at all sketchy electrical work    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Punta Arenas (Category:  Backpacking)

Punta Arenas    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Centro Cultural Braun-Menendez (Category:  Backpacking)

Centro Cultural Braun-Menendez    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Completo Vegetariano - That's a hotdog with everything on it... except the hotdog (Category:  Backpacking)

Completo Vegetariano - That's a hotdog with everything on it... except the hotdog    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Straits of Magellan (Category:  Backpacking)

Straits of Magellan    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Skateboard park (Category:  Backpacking)

Skateboard park    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Liar! It isn't made of jelly. Or fish. (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #8

Liar! It isn't made of jelly. Or fish.    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Replica of Nao Victoria, Magellan's ship (Category:  Backpacking)

Replica of Nao Victoria, Magellan's ship    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Replica of the Beagle, Darwin's ship (Category:  Backpacking)

Replica of the Beagle, Darwin's ship    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Liar! That isn't a beagle! (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #9

Liar! That isn't a beagle!    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

HMS Rabbit? (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #10

HMS Rabbit?    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Replica of Nao Victoria, Magellan's ship (Category:  Backpacking)

Replica of Nao Victoria, Magellan's ship    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018

Museo Naval y Maritimo (Category:  Backpacking)

Museo Naval y Maritimo    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/30/2018

Shackleton's crew was rescued by the Chilean navy (Category:  Backpacking)

Shackleton's crew was rescued by the Chilean navy    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/30/2018

More food photos (Category:  Backpacking)

More food photos    Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/30/2018

Hostel cats (Category:  Backpacking)

Hostel cats    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018

Not hostile cats (Category:  Backpacking)

Not hostile cats    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018

Jealous cats (Category:  Backpacking)

Jealous cats    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018

Puerto Natales (Category:  Backpacking)

Puerto Natales    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018

I love my giant sloth! (Category:  Backpacking)

I love my giant sloth!    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018

Monumento de la Mano (Category:  Backpacking)

Monumento de la Mano    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018

Monumento de la Mano goes at V2 (Category:  Backpacking)

Monumento de la Mano goes at V2    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018

Monumento de la Penguino (Category:  Backpacking)

Monumento de la Penguino    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018

Guanaco (Category:  Backpacking)

Guanaco    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018

Guanacos (Category:  Backpacking)

Guanacos    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018

Torres del Paine (Category:  Backpacking)

Torres del Paine    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018

Chilean Fire Bush (Category:  Backpacking)

Chilean Fire Bush    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018

Lago Nordenskjold (Category:  Backpacking)

Lago Nordenskjold    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018

Lago Nordenskjold (Category:  Backpacking)

Lago Nordenskjold    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018

Lago Nordenskjold (Category:  Backpacking)

Lago Nordenskjold    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018

Rangers on horseback (Category:  Backpacking)

Rangers on horseback    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018

Are you kidding me? (Category:  Backpacking)

Are you kidding me? BTW, that's $100 to have your backpack carried 7 miles, or $75 to have your backpack carried 3 miles.    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018

Horses (Category:  Backpacking)

Horses
Obviously    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018

In many places the trail separated with one path for horses and one for people. (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #11

In many places the trail separated with one path for horses and one for people. The impressive part is that they trained the horses to read these signs.    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018

Hiking to Serano (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking to Serano    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018

Hiking to Serano (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking to Serano    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018

Hiking to Serano (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking to Serano    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018

Hiking to Dickson (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking to Dickson    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/3/2018

Hiking to Dickson (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking to Dickson    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/3/2018

Yay sunshirt! (Category:  Backpacking)

But Ours Goes To Eleven

Yay sunshirt!    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/3/2018

Hiking to Dickson (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking to Dickson    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/3/2018

Dickson (Category:  Backpacking)

Dickson    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/3/2018

Sunrise at Dickson (Category:  Backpacking)

Sunrise at Dickson    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018

No horses beyond this point (Category:  Backpacking)

No horses beyond this point    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018

Hiking to Los Perros (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking to Los Perros    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018

Glacier Perros (Category:  Backpacking)

Glacier Perros    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018

Glacier Perros (Category:  Backpacking)

Glacier Perros    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018

Glacier Perros (Category:  Backpacking)

Glacier Perros    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018

Glacier Perros (Category:  Backpacking)

Glacier Perros    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018

In the Los Perros shelter (Category:  Backpacking)

In the Los Perros shelter    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018

Oreos and powdered milk! And Farkle! Great way to spend a rainy day. (Category:  Backpacking)

Oreos and powdered milk! And Farkle! Great way to spend a rainy day.    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018

Everyone was crowded in the shelter all day (Category:  Backpacking)

Everyone was crowded in the shelter all day    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018

The snow line was a few hundred feet above us (Category:  Backpacking)

The snow line was a few hundred feet above us    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Every river was raging (Category:  Backpacking)

Every river was raging    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Paso John Gardner (Category:  Backpacking)

Paso John Gardner    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey (Category:  Backpacking)

Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey (Category:  Backpacking)

Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey (Category:  Backpacking)

Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey (Category:  Backpacking)

Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Wet feet all day (Category:  Backpacking)

Wet feet all day    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

An iceberg has broken off Glacier Grey (Category:  Backpacking)

An iceberg has broken off Glacier Grey    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Glacier Grey (Category:  Backpacking)

Glacier Grey    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Glacier Grey iceberg (Category:  Backpacking)

Glacier Grey iceberg    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Glacier Grey (Category:  Backpacking)

Glacier Grey    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Glacier Grey (Category:  Backpacking)

Glacier Grey    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Glacier Grey (Category:  Backpacking)

Glacier Grey    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

One of three suspension bridges (Category:  Backpacking)

One of three suspension bridges    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

View down through the suspension bridge deck (Category:  Backpacking)

View down through the suspension bridge deck    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018

Lots of water (Category:  Backpacking)

Lots of water    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018

Chilean Fire Bush again (Category:  Backpacking)

Chilean Fire Bush again    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018

Saying goodbye to Glacier Grey (Category:  Backpacking)

Saying goodbye to Glacier Grey    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018

Violet Foxglove (Category:  Backpacking)

Violet Foxglove    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018

On the ferry to Pudeto (Category:  Backpacking)

On the ferry to Pudeto    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018

What time is the bus supposed to leave? (Category:  Backpacking)

La empresa no se hace responsable

What time is the bus supposed to leave?    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018

This is the only road leading to Central and it is completely flooded. (Category:  Backpacking)

This is the only road leading to Central and it is completely flooded. Pickup trucks are ferrying tourists and baggage, but it seems impossible that they can keep up with demand. We arrived on this road six days ago and it took us almost an hour to get a bus. I can't imagine the wait for a pickup truck.    Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018

Om nom nom! (Category:  Backpacking)

Om nom nom!    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/6/2018

More food pictures than glacier pictures? (Category:  Backpacking)

More food pictures than glacier pictures?    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/6/2018

Tobias (Category:  Backpacking)

Tobias    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/7/2018

Roof woof? (Category:  Backpacking)

Roof woof?    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/7/2018

Hiking up Cerro Dorotea (Category:  Backpacking)

Hiking up Cerro Dorotea    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/8/2018

View of Puerto Natales from atop Cerro Dorotea (Category:  Backpacking)

View of Puerto Natales from atop Cerro Dorotea    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/8/2018

View of Puerto Natales from atop Cerro Dorotea (Category:  Backpacking)

View of Puerto Natales from atop Cerro Dorotea    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/8/2018

Don't trip on those mushrooms! (Category:  Backpacking)

Joke Fail #12

Don't trip on those mushrooms!    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/8/2018

Baaa. Baaa to your jokes! (Category:  Backpacking)

Baaa. Baaa to your jokes!    Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/8/2018

The server put two spoons in my gelato, and I'm all like,

I'm Not Sharing!

The server put two spoons in my gelato, and I'm all like, "no, yo solo!" She doesn't miss a beat and responds with, "si la cuchara se rompe" (if the spoon breaks)    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/9/2018

Going to bring one home for Rob and Anna (Category:  Backpacking)

Going to bring one home for Rob and Anna    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/9/2018

Calafate berries! (Category:  Backpacking)

Calafate berries!    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Juvenile Southern Crested Caracara (Category:  Backpacking)

Juvenile Southern Crested Caracara    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Juvenile Southern Crested Caracara (Category:  Backpacking)

Juvenile Southern Crested Caracara    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Juvenile Southern Crested Caracara (Category:  Backpacking)

Juvenile Southern Crested Caracara    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

That's a no parking sign out in the water (Category:  Backpacking)

No Parking!

That's a no parking sign out in the water    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

The water level is up about 5 meters because the glacier dams this part of the lake (Category:  Backpacking)

The water level is up about 5 meters because the glacier dams this part of the lake    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Thousands of visitors each day (Category:  Backpacking)

Thousands of visitors each day    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018

Perito Moreno Glacier (Category:  Backpacking)

Perito Moreno Glacier    El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018