Backpacking --- 1/12/2018 - 2/13/2018 --- Patagonia
After a few days in NYC and a very long set of flights to El Calafate and another bus ride, we arrived in El Chalten. Did a tiny bit of sport climbing at Vescho and Paredon de los Condors. Then we set out on the first of three backpacking loops. An easy three day trip to Lago de los Tres and Laguna Torre. Perfect weather along with gorgeous views of the Fitz Roy range and Cerro Torre.
After a rest day or two we set out on our second backpacking loop. We hiked the four day Huemul circuit. This was a really fun loop. More difficult and remote than the crowded hikes closer to El Chalten. Again we had perfect weather and amazing views. Crossing the Paso del Viento on the second day and seeing the southern Patagonian ice field was a once in lifetime experience. This is the third largest store of fresh water in the world (after the ice fields in Antarctica and Greenland). It is massive on a scale that pictures can't convey. On the third day we hiked along the Viedma glacier. At about 1000 km^2 it is the largest glacier in Argentina. The Huemul circuit was by far the highlight of my entire trip to Patagonia.
After another rest day it was time to leave El Chalten. Two days of busses got us to Punta Arenas. Our plan was to see the penguins on Isla Magdalena but high winds kept all the boats in port. Biggest disappointment of the trip, but a good reason to return. We did see a few museums and toured replicas of a bunch of famous ships.
Then off to Puerto Natales. This is the gateway to Torres del Paine. We had reservations for a modified version of the O Loop backpacking circuit. Six days in the park were awesome. Weather was mostly good, though the trail to Tres Torres was closed due to high winds on the day we planned to hike it. And we had one 17 hour rain storm. Which very luckily occurred on the day we had a very short hike to Los Perros. So we managed to spend the entire stretch of rain in camp (it was also the only time in 13 days of backpacking in Patagonia that I needed to turn on my headlamp... yay for long summer days!) Highlights include many glaciers including the 270 km^2 Glacier Grey.
Returning to Puerto Natales for a few days, we mostly rested. Though we did hike Cerro Dorotea to get a great view of the region. Like all of our other hikes, this was counterclockwise. Because of the coriolis effect in the southern hemisphere.
Back in El Calafate we had one day to fill before our flights home. We went to the Perito Moreno glacier (which is what EVERYONE in El Calafate does). It is a large (260 km^2) glacier about 8 km wide at the terminus, with cliffs 50m to 70m tall. The terminus hasn't moved much for decades, allowing the park service to erect a bunch of steel walkways and observation decks. The glacier is relatively fast moving, progressing about 2m per day. So it calves frequently and somewhat dramatically. A great way to end the trip!
There is plenty of beta online for people interested in backpacking in Patagonia. I'll add my thoughts here. Everything was current and correct as of early 2018, but things change.
Flying out of JFK NYC -- 1/15/2018 |
|
Stretching my legs after 24 hours of travel. El Calafate, Argentina -- 1/16/2018 |
|
Bla! That is a fat dog! El Calafate, Argentina -- 1/17/2018 |
|
Made it to El Chalten! El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018 |
|
Climbing at Vescho El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018 |
|
Climbing at Vescho El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018 |
|
Climbing at Vescho El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018 |
|
Climbing at Vescho El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018 |
|
Climbing at Vescho El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018 |
|
Buscando. 5.10d, onsight. The one climb I actually enjoyed. I really need to go back and climb something in the Fitz Roy range! El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018 |
|
Pigeons El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #1 I was going to make the joke that "They gave us the wrong key!" but the first time I held the key up to the door, I had them in the opposite order. Which was funny, but not the joke I was aiming for. El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/17/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #2 Worst weather in the world = Worst jokes in the world El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #3 This is such an international city that temperature is reported in both Celsius and Celsius. El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018 |
|
Climbing at Paredon de los Condors El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018 |
|
Climbing at Paredon de los Condors El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018 |
|
Climbing at Paredon de los Condors El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018 |
|
The merging of Rio Fitz Roy (which is filled with glacial silt) and Rio de Las Vueltas (which is not) El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018 |
|
Climbing at Paredon de los Condors El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/18/2018 |
|
Starting the hike up to Lago de los Tres El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Hiking to Lago de los Tres El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Hiking to Lago de los Tres El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Hiking to Lago de los Tres El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #4 Be careful where you leave your car... when you are five miles from the nearest road. El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #5, part 1 Follow the Yellow Stick Road El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #5, part 2 Somewhere Over the Rainbow El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Something about Patagonia... we saw rainbows almost every day El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #6 No Laura... you have to run BEHIND me while I take the panorama El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Lago de los Tres El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Bird El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/19/2018 |
|
Fitz Roy Range El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018 |
|
Fitz Roy Range El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018 |
|
Fitz Roy Range. Have I mentioned how much I want to climb one of these? El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #7 Actually, I thought this was pretty funny El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018 |
|
Fitz Roy Range El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018 |
|
Headed toward Laguna Torre El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018 |
|
Thanks Chez Samson! El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018 |
|
Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, and Aguja Standhardt El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018 |
|
Sit on all the rocks! El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018 |
|
Laguna Torre with Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, and Aguja Standhardt behind and to the right. Centered in the foreground are the Adela mountains. El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/20/2018 |
|
Jetboil El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/21/2018 |
|
El Chalten El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/21/2018 |
|
250g of gelato El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/21/2018 |
|
250g of waffles El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/21/2018 |
|
Looks like someone could push that boulder right off the hill El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018 |
|
Cerro Huemul El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018 |
|
Cerro Huemul El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018 |
|
Cerro Huemul El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018 |
|
Red berries El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018 |
|
Cerro Huemul El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018 |
|
Penguin swing El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018 |
|
Rio Tunel near camp Toro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018 |
|
Non-silty water from a small creek upstream of camp Toro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/23/2018 |
|
Start of day 2. Laura hiking with Tracey and Nitai El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Me on the tyro across Rio Tunel El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Laura on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Laura on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Laura on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Leah on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Leah on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Leah on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Tracey on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Tracey on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Tracey on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Nitai on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Nitai on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Nitai on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Nitai on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Penguin on the tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Rio Tunel Glacier El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Rio Tunel Glacier El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Rio Tunel Glacier El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Laura on the glacier El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Penguin running around the glacier El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Approaching Paso del Viento El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Approaching Paso del Viento El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Laura and Leah at Paso del Viento El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
The Southern Patagonian Ice Fields!!! El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
The Southern Patagonian Ice Fields!!! El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
The Southern Patagonian Ice Fields!!! El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Laura and Leah descending from the pass El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Leah descending from the pass El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Mating grasshoppers? El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Approaching the refugio El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Approaching the refugio El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/24/2018 |
|
Viedma Glacier El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018 |
|
Viedma Glacier El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018 |
|
Viedma Lake with bits of Viedma Glacier El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018 |
|
Viedma Lake with bits of Viedma Glacier El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018 |
|
Camp Cow Skull El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018 |
|
Camp Cow Skull El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018 |
|
Camp Cow Skull El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/25/2018 |
|
Leah is having a bad spork day You know that it would be untrue
|
|
Sunrise and rainbow over Camp Cow Skull El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018 |
|
Sunrise and rainbow over Camp Cow Skull El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018 |
|
Final tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018 |
|
Final tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018 |
|
Final tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018 |
|
Final tyro El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018 |
|
I don't usually take this many food pictures El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/26/2018 |
|
Really, I don't El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/27/2018 |
|
But I had to get a shot a Sebastiaan and his Calafate Berry Milkshake El Chalten, Argentina -- 1/27/2018 |
|
Local performers Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Not at all sketchy electrical work Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Punta Arenas Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Centro Cultural Braun-Menendez Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Completo Vegetariano - That's a hotdog with everything on it... except the hotdog Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Straits of Magellan Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Skateboard park Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #8 Liar! It isn't made of jelly. Or fish. Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Replica of Nao Victoria, Magellan's ship Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Replica of the Beagle, Darwin's ship Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #9 Liar! That isn't a beagle! Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #10 HMS Rabbit? Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Replica of Nao Victoria, Magellan's ship Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/29/2018 |
|
Museo Naval y Maritimo Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/30/2018 |
|
Shackleton's crew was rescued by the Chilean navy Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/30/2018 |
|
More food photos Punta Arenas, Chile -- 1/30/2018 |
|
Hostel cats Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018 |
|
Not hostile cats Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018 |
|
Jealous cats Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018 |
|
Puerto Natales Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018 |
|
I love my giant sloth! Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018 |
|
Monumento de la Mano Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018 |
|
Monumento de la Mano goes at V2 Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018 |
|
Monumento de la Penguino Puerto Natales, Chile -- 1/31/2018 |
|
Guanaco Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018 |
|
Guanacos Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018 |
|
Torres del Paine Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018 |
|
Chilean Fire Bush Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018 |
|
Lago Nordenskjold Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018 |
|
Lago Nordenskjold Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018 |
|
Lago Nordenskjold Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018 |
|
Rangers on horseback Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/1/2018 |
|
Are you kidding me? BTW, that's $100 to have your backpack carried 7 miles, or $75 to have your backpack carried 3 miles. Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018 |
|
Horses
|
|
Joke Fail #11 In many places the trail separated with one path for horses and one for people. The impressive part is that they trained the horses to read these signs. Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018 |
|
Hiking to Serano Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018 |
|
Hiking to Serano Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018 |
|
Hiking to Serano Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/2/2018 |
|
Hiking to Dickson Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/3/2018 |
|
Hiking to Dickson Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/3/2018 |
|
But Ours Goes To Eleven Yay sunshirt! Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/3/2018 |
|
Hiking to Dickson Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/3/2018 |
|
Dickson Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/3/2018 |
|
Sunrise at Dickson Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018 |
|
No horses beyond this point Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018 |
|
Hiking to Los Perros Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018 |
|
Glacier Perros Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018 |
|
Glacier Perros Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018 |
|
Glacier Perros Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018 |
|
Glacier Perros Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018 |
|
In the Los Perros shelter Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018 |
|
Oreos and powdered milk! And Farkle! Great way to spend a rainy day. Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018 |
|
Everyone was crowded in the shelter all day Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/4/2018 |
|
The snow line was a few hundred feet above us Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Every river was raging Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Paso John Gardner Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Atop Paso John Gardner, looking at Glacier Grey Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Wet feet all day Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
An iceberg has broken off Glacier Grey Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Glacier Grey Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Glacier Grey iceberg Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Glacier Grey Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Glacier Grey Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Glacier Grey Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
One of three suspension bridges Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
View down through the suspension bridge deck Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/5/2018 |
|
Lots of water Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018 |
|
Chilean Fire Bush again Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018 |
|
Saying goodbye to Glacier Grey Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018 |
|
Violet Foxglove Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018 |
|
On the ferry to Pudeto Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018 |
|
La empresa no se hace responsable What time is the bus supposed to leave? Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018 |
|
This is the only road leading to Central and it is completely flooded. Pickup trucks are ferrying tourists and baggage, but it seems impossible that they can keep up with demand. We arrived on this road six days ago and it took us almost an hour to get a bus. I can't imagine the wait for a pickup truck. Torres del Paine, Chile -- 2/6/2018 |
|
Om nom nom! Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/6/2018 |
|
More food pictures than glacier pictures? Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/6/2018 |
|
Tobias Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/7/2018 |
|
Roof woof? Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/7/2018 |
|
Hiking up Cerro Dorotea Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/8/2018 |
|
View of Puerto Natales from atop Cerro Dorotea Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/8/2018 |
|
View of Puerto Natales from atop Cerro Dorotea Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/8/2018 |
|
Joke Fail #12 Don't trip on those mushrooms! Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/8/2018 |
|
Baaa. Baaa to your jokes! Puerto Natales, Chile -- 2/8/2018 |
|
I'm Not Sharing! The server put two spoons in my gelato, and I'm all like, "no, yo solo!" She doesn't miss a beat and responds with, "si la cuchara se rompe" (if the spoon breaks) El Calafate, Chile -- 2/9/2018 |
|
Going to bring one home for Rob and Anna El Calafate, Chile -- 2/9/2018 |
|
Calafate berries! El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Juvenile Southern Crested Caracara El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Juvenile Southern Crested Caracara El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Juvenile Southern Crested Caracara El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
No Parking! That's a no parking sign out in the water El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
The water level is up about 5 meters because the glacier dams this part of the lake El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Thousands of visitors each day El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |
|
Perito Moreno Glacier El Calafate, Chile -- 2/10/2018 |