Ice Climbing --- 1/17/2020 - 1/21/2020 --- Adirondacks
Saturday morning I got up bright and early to attend yoga. Did I do it just to be in a heated room? Regardless of my motivation, it was a good way to start the day. After that we went to the Mountaineer and I borrowed a pair of Phantom Techs to demo. Also ran into Mike who was repping for Grivel. We had camped together at Devil's Tower about six years ago.
We went off to Chapel Pond Canyon and actually found space at Hot Shot and Ice Slot to climb. Who says the festival is crowded? Everybody, actually.
At night we went to the festival party and I met the first and only fan of this website (wassup Peter? told you I'd give you a shoutout). Yes Guy and Camille, you are also fans, but you have to be since you are my friends.
For dinner we had vegan stir fry. Koala tofu is vegan if the koalas were killed in the Australia fires, right?
Sunday we went to Pitchoff Quarry and got in a ton of laps before the clinics showed up. Then got in some more laps. It was fun to toprope a lot of ice. At night we went to the festival slideshow.
Monday it was very cold and clear. So I figured Mineville would be a good choice to get some sunshine. It was warm and sunny, but the ice wasn't in the best of condition. A few laps and we were done. With forecasts of -10F at night, I camped at the Keene Valley Hostel to give myself a few hours respite from the freezing truck.
Tuesday we climbed Roaring Brook Falls. This is quite possibly the first ice climb I ever saw, and I had still never climbed it. The bottom pitch had a lot of water so Emily started off to the left. But it was very very thin and sketchy. So she came down and I gave it a go. The climbing wasn't hard, but it was one of the more terrifying leads I've ever done. One or two inches of snow ice barely bonded to rock. I got my first good screw about 3' below the end of the pitch. Barf! The scrambling pitch and upper pitch were in much better condition and were in the sun. So the day finished as a spectacular success. And that's what matters.